FYSETC Ender 3 V2 Solid Bed Mount - 3 High 1 Short 3D Printer Leveling Parts - Ender3 Pro Silicone Spacers: OD 0.63 in ID 0.16 in Heat-Resistant Column for CR-10 Ender-3 Bottom Connect - Black

I cannot speak to the CR-10, but I can confirm that these fit the Ender 3 perfectly, and without requiring the 3D printed parts mentioned in the description . In fact, I had already replaced the stock bed springs with the yellow heavier springs. Yet, those yellow springs still allowed the bed to move around a lot, requiring constant leveling. Though, once I installed these silicon bed mounts, the printer became a well-behaved speed deamon at last. Backing up a little, you only use these solid bed mounts if you have mounted a probe, such as the BLTouch or EZABL. Also, while installing, I replaced the bed level adjustment wheels with 4mm locknuts. Then, use a bubble level and tighten the locknuts a little at a time to level the bed in all directions. The goal is to level the bed against the frame so that the bed stays level when slid forward and backwards. Next, you will need to level the gantry using the now level bed as a reference. I have a dual Z axis drive installed, so this is easy. If you have only the stock single Z drive, then this might require taking the gantry off and adjusting the bolts to get it level. When done leveling, you should be able to move the hot end down to the bed and move it back and forth on the X axis without any change in Z height from the bed. Then, you should be able to slide the bed back and forth on the Y axis and repeat the X axis gap test. This is a really critical step though. You need a level bed against the frame and a level gantry or the print quality will be terrible. With the lock nuts now secure and the bed and gantry both leveled, now the probe can do its job and level against the bed shape itself. Plus, being that you used lock nuts on the bed, all the hard work will stay put. Finally, the silicon bed mounts can really shine by dampening vibration as the bed slings from front to back during prints. This vibration dampening effect is why these silicon mounts are far better than solid aluminum. The practical result is reduced ringing on the Y axis. I am extremely happy with the silicon bed mounts now that they are installed using the procedure above. My Ender 3, albeit a heavily modified Ender 3, now prints the best it ever has. I get a really consistent first layer height and the prints adhere better with a uniform constant height. On top of that, my Z layers are smoother since the Y axis lines up better with each bed move. Best $10 I have ever spent on this printer.

I like the rigidity of the silicone bushings. I think they are a little short for the CR-10S. I had to add 2 washers below to ensure a good compression and not cause my Z-Axis to bind when trying to go down that far. The washers also should allow you to leave the old Z limit switch on. Without washers, the Z limit switch has to come off to allow for the travel (if you put some compression on the bushings). The build plate seems very sturdy with these and I hope they last for quite a while.

Once you level these silicone replacements up they won't constantly go out of tune the way metal springs do. Set it and forget it. If you're printing TPU, you could print your own. But these are so cheap and well made, and Amazon Prime ships like lightning. So, better to buy them. PS: Don't forget to relevel your bed. These things will change your bed height.

Thought it might fit all ender 3s however the 4th one is to short it needs 4 of equal length. Seems like decent quality though

I've got 2 printers. this went on my second printer. this worked just as well on this printer as the other set did on my first printer. they're a very worthwhile upgrade that helps hold the bed position once you've got it dialed in.

Since I installed these, I only need to level the bed when changing a nozzle or filament. The bed stays level. Basically if I am leveling the bed, it is because I am concerned that I may have moved the Hot end. Before I bought these I would have to level the bed after almost every print, or anytime I had to pry a print off the bed. I don't use a BLtouch or any kind of automatic bed leveler, I do it manually with a piece of paper, and I have had very good results since I installed these.

Work really well, a little short for my cr-10s, but could be due to mine having been modified before I bought it. Easy fix, print a shorter end stop arm. They do squish more than you’d expect given how firm they are, found I could tighten them quite well with my large knobs.

Awesome, Awesome product. Not sure why it only has two stars. Top notch, no problems. It doesnt vibrate as much, it doesnt shrink or grow with temperature change. And one of them is even a little shorter to accommodate for the strain relief on the hotbed wires. I would buy more but these things are very tough, no need.