ARP 100-9909 Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricant - 1.69 oz. Fluid Squeeze Tube

Good fast service great for apr studs

I have been assembling a car engine. Somebody shoot me. I should NEVER have agreed to do this, but.... the wife can be SOOOO convincing and I really want to see her smile when she fires up her Corvette again ... so.... here I am a Midnight Mechanic. At least it cools off in the garage at night. :) NOTE: Be sure to clean ALL bolts with a petroleum solvent like brake cleaner (I prefer) or carb cleaner. Used bolts should be very carefully inspected before re-use (I recommend against re-using bolts except known very high quality hardware) and threads very carefully wire brushed. You MUST remove the manufacturing and shipping oils from new fasteners too! All of this must be done BEFORE applying anti-seize, thread locker, water sealants, or any other use. You may also find it helpful to "chase threads" in new or reconditioned engine parts with the appropriate tool (or at least a metal bristle gun bore cleaner of the right size) and blow compressed air inside to ensure clean and properly torqued clamping with your fasteners. ANY time you put steel bolts (fasteners) in aluminum, you MUST use a lubricant like this on the threads to prevent seizing. That's because the steel bolts and the aluminum threads expand and contract at different rates due to thermal changes. Over a couple years of an engine heating up and cooling down a few hundred times, the steel and aluminum become very difficult to separate, or "seized" UNLESS you use this when assembling the engine. (Reminds me of Olde English land law - being "seized" in the land meant you owned it. The aluminum heads really will own your steel bolts if you don't use this "anti-seize" on the bolts!!) To prevent seizing, put a thick stripe of this very high quality lubricant up and down along the bolt threads before assembly. ADDITIONALLY, even for steel bolts in steel threads (and for steel bolts into aluminum threads), using the anti-seize UNDER the head of the bolt and on both sides of the washer is VERY IMPORTANT to allow the bolt to slide smoothly over the clamped surface without "galling" the washer or top of the surface. This does two things: (a) it saves the surface being clamped from being scraped, scratched or otherwise deformed; and (b) it allows the bolt (fastener) to reach the proper torque specification along the threads without "false friction" from the bolt head grinding on the clamped surface giving a false torque reading. THIS SHOULD NOT BE USED ON BOLT THREADS THAT REQUIRE THREAD LOCKER (e.g., cam gear sprocket bolts). THIS SHOULD NOT BE USED ON BOLT THREADS THAT ENTER WATER JACKETS (e.g. some head bolts). YOU CAN AND SHOULD USE THIS ON THE bolt head and washer for the previous two situations, but NOT ON THE THREADS!

This is a must have for for steel fasteners in aluminum! This stuff is the best!

If using ARP bolts, this is a must. Have yet to have a failure using it. Only use enough to put a thin layer on the threads for best results.

Remember when using torquing compound, make sure all the threads are clean. Be sure to put light amount on the faces of washers and all contacts spots such as under a head bolt head and or the nut on the washer face any place where there’s contact allows for property away with friction and gall, well worth the price

Just as described

New quality product at an affordable price. Thank you

At first I thought it was a packet but it’s actually a tube just like the picture showed. Exactly what I needed, cheap & fast shipping too. Check out my video

Funciona muy bien para los tornillos

Bought this prior to realizing that all ARP products come with lubricant (Main studs, head studs, even the crank bolt!) But this tube is far easier to use and less messy than the tearable baggies you get with hardware, so I used this instead.

My cylinder head torqued down onto my 16 specially made stainless studs with good consistency. I can't compare it to similar products but I'm happy with it.

Very good product !!!

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