Park Tool Shimano/ISIS Bottom Bracket Tool

This is exactly what I needed for my bike and it didn’t disappoint. It feels solid and well-made and it fits perfectly on Shimano and bottom brackets without any slipping or wobble. It’s straightforward, no-nonsense, and works exactly as advertised. If you do your own bike maintenance or want the right tool for bottom bracket jobs, this is a dependable, high-quality choice that deserves a spot in your toolkit.

Worked great on a Cannondale Treadmill 2, was able to tighten the bottom bracket which was a little loose and squeaky

Needed to replace the bottom bracket on my '98 Giant Iguana. It's never been off before and this bike has seen some miles. Almost bought the $9 socket, but have learned my lesson about cheap tools, even if you only expect to use it once, and I'm glad I listened to that little voice. Two days of penetrating oil (which did nothing), a heat gun, a ball joint C-clamp, two and a half feet of leverage, the BBT-22 socket and no small amount of gorilla torque were required the break that GD bottom bracket loose. Seth Alvo would have been proud of my janky setup! This is were the Park Tool BBT-22 impressed me. I honestly expected the splines to fail before I broke the torque, I'm not lying, it was ridiculous. But when I got it apart, the tool showed virtually no indication at all of it's ordeal. Honestly impressed. See the pics, I really had to use a ginormous C-clamp to keep the socket engaged while I turned the earth on it's axis to break that thing free. I took a picture of the socket afterwards for proof of its durability.

Well, I broke the first one. The Bottom Bracket was really tight and I did not bolt the tool to the BB Axle using the Crank retaining Holes. The tool slipped, broke out the plastic BB retainer on the non drive side, and the tool cracked. I managed to get that side out after bolting the tool to the crank Axel and using a 1" deepwell socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet. The tool disentegtated while trying to remove the Drive side BB retainer. So I ordered a new Tool. This time I bolted it down, used the 1" deepwell socket and added a 30" breaker bar. I also took the Bike out of the maintenance stand and set it on it's wheels. The retainer came loose,reluctantly, and the tool survived. Also make sure to clean the dirt out of the splines on the retainers. Also remember, as the bike is sitting on the ground the right side turns clockwise to remove it. On the left side of the bike turn it counter clockwise to remove it. Suggest that you watch a few videos if you are a rookie.

This tool seats solidly into the spline on the standard Shimano style splined bottom bracket cups. In spite of the relatively soft metal of the cups on the cheap (and now worn out) original sealed cartridge bearing square taper bottom bracket (VP-BC73 68 by 118 mm) on my older bike, this tool was able to crank out the cups without stripping the spline on the cups or on the tool. While the tool packaging does include instructions on which direction to crank the tool to properly loosen the bottom bracket cups (i.e. which way to crank the tool), a handy rule of thumb is this: to loosen the bottom bracket, turn the wrench in the same direction as you would pedal when riding the bike, and start with the non-drive-side first. The direction you need to turn seems counter-intuitive to me (and is the opposite of what you do to loosen the pedals on your bike) but it works. As a previous reviewer commented, you can compensate for the loose fit between the teeth of this tool and the bottom bracket cup by using a bolt and a few washers; this will not allow you to use a square drive wrench directly (because the bolt goes through the square hole), but it does keep the tool in place. However, if you use a deep socket attachment on the square drive wrench you can still go that route thanks to the hexagonal drive portions of the tool. Alternatively, you can do what I did and attach two wrenches pointing opposite directions on the tool, then crank on both at once, equally. This way, you're pretty much applying a pure torque load to the tool and you won't cause it to "fall out" of the bottom bracket cup.

I used Park Bottom Bracket tool to replace the square taper sealed cartridge type bottom bracket on my Mercier Galaxy SC1 14-speed road bike that began making creaking sounds when I pedaled after just 3,000 miles. The park BB tool offers a wide variety of turning options. The end of the tool has a slot for a standard 3/8" socket driver and it can also be turned using a 32mm or a 1" socket or wrench. The 32mm or 1" ends are ideal to use with a 1/2" breaker bar and socket for added leverage when removing difficult bottom brackets. The larger ends placed near the head makes it easier to center the tool while turning it and applies torque to the head of the tool instead where it's needed, instead of the end. The 3/8" slot can be used to tighten it with a torque wrench to avoid stripping the threads and ensure the bottom bracket is torqued to the proper spec. The teeth on the Park tool did begin to slightly show wear after just one use. I'm not sure it will live up to the 'shop quality' claim in the description, but it should be durable enough for occasional home repairs.

There's not a whole lot I need to say about this. It's solid, it doesn't strip, it doesn't slip, it is a solid metal tool that as soon as you hold it you can tell it is better than anything else out there. It's not 3D printed, it's not made of some crap alloy, it is solid and you would have a hard time breaking it. Right now on Amazon Park Tool is one of the few companies that you can say all of that about their tools almost all the time. Did you get that Amazon tool sellers? Step it up!

It fits and it works as intended. Most certainly worth the price, given what it would take to do the job less this socket. I used it on a couple different models, Trek and NEXT, very different quality of bike, manufactured about a decade apart.

Busqué mucho entre las grandes marcas de taller para ciclismo y aproveché lo que me pareció un gran precio comparando con la numerosas que existen en el mercado. En un inicio me gustaba la posibilidad de usar tanto con llave fija como de carraca y/o dinamométrica. Al final me decanté por el uso de una fija, que me deja fijar el extractor al eje con un tornillo de rosca y una arandela (similar al que sujeta las bielas pero de mayor longitud). Así al usarla no se estropearán los dientes manteniendo el extractor en la posición adecuada (impide que se salga al hacer fuerza para sacar un eje que esté muy duro, como aquellos en los que no se realizó mantenimiento durante años). Por esto el hueco se hace imprescindible en mi opinión, y descarta las cerradas para uso exclusivo de llave fija. En cuanto a las similares, el poder usar dos llaves fijas al mismo tiempo ,además del prestigio de la marca decantaría mi elección (alguna vez se necesitarán dos personas haciendo fuerza para sacar el eje pedalier o incluso golpes secos en la llave). Ojo al sentido de rosca. Protege cuadro y demás para no rayarlo. Ojalá sea útil. Saludos

Outil indispensable si vous entretenez et réparez vous-même votre vélo. La qualité est bonne pour un usage domestique. Pour un usage professionnel, je n'en sais rien, mais la robustesse semble rassurante.

Quality tool that fits the ebike bottom bracket perfectly with no play that I'm working on, didn't want to risk getting a cheaper one and damaging the teeth.

Bonne qualité, comme souvent avec les outils Park tools

I'd bought a cheap version, though it had the 20 teeth I couldn't make it fit. Took a chance on this better quality tool, and it worked well, inserts nice and tightly, great quality.