Bonide Infuse Lawn & Landscape Systemic Disease Control, 7.5 lb. Ready-to-Use Granules, Fungicide for Turf & Ornamentals

Though its advertised for use in lawn and landscape, it works great with rose bushes as well. An insecticide is still needed.

Systemic chemicals are the way to go for longer effectiveness, but can be hard to find in a fungicide. Non-systemic fungicides work well, but need much more frequent application, as they wash off with rain and irrigation overspray. With Infuse, I've had great success in stopping die-off from fungus damage on camelia's and roses, as well as on lawns. I also like that this chemical is formulated for both on ornamentals AND lawns. Many granules that are available are not dual purpose and can cause damage or stress if applied to the wrong plants. -- Much easier to handle and transport than a liquid, as I just sprinkle some around the root/trunk base upon first signs of disease. Works for 2-3 months to protect lawns and ornamentals. -- Avoided around $500 in warranty-replacements on a bed of spring camellia's i installed that were browning out. They are now full and flushed with fresh growth and healthy blooms and buds (3 months after first application.) -- Great for those working in horticulture, as well as home gardeners who are vigilant about keeping things healthy.

Used this for the first time this summer. Seemed to work well on keeping lawn disease under control. Will use again when needed.

Gray leaf spot spread through my lawn pretty severely before I figured out only certain antifungals could treat this type of leaf spot. PSA: Gray leaf spot is the worst. I It took me too long to treat it properly and my back yard is almost gone because it took me to long to figure out: 1.) Gray leaf spot has to be listed specifically in a fungicide. If the fungicide says it’s effective for “leaf spot” that may not include gray leaf spot. These are fungicides effective against gray leaf spot: 🔸azoxystrobin 🔸chlorothalonil 🔸chlorothalonil + fenarimol 🔸thiophanate-methyl + mancozeb 🔸propiconazole 🔸pyraclostrobin Source: https://plantdiseasehandbook.tamu.edu/landscaping/lawn-turf/chemical-controls-for-turfgrass-diseases/ 👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻My understanding is 🔸azoxystrobin and 🔸propiconazole are the two best 🏆 against it and good for many other types of fungus as well. 2.) you can’t treat it with most commonly available fungicide products you find at garden stores. 3.) Always ALWAYS!!! water in the morning. NEVER at night. At night the water sits for hours until daylight and is a perfect environment for fungus. If watered in the morning there will be time for the water to soak in and the day will evaporate excess so moisture doesn’t just sit and invite fungus 4.) Fungicides should be applied as a preventative on a regular basis and rotated. It also should be applied quickly at the the first sign of disease. By the time your lawn starts dying it may be difficult or impossible to stop.

I bought this because it works systemically. Sprinkle it out. Water it in. And it works! I sure wasn't going to buy the kind that you have to spray on each leave (front and back).

This is good stuff. Works quickly and is effective. Only lasts four weeks but it replaces spray and gets all the way to the top of trees.

Saw the difference in less then a week.

Takes weeks for granules to disappear even with watering. No effect on lawn whatsoever. Of course, a waste of money as it can't be returned. Not sure if it's organic, so I will have to go back to the chemical which works. I am trying to avoid using these.