OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black)

I have a CoreXY machine that I've been using to experiment with higher temp thermoplastics lately and nylon is completely new to me, and after seeing this at around 30 dollars I thought it would be easily worth it to give it a try and have some fun, and fun I had. Don't get me wrong, this filament isn't completely easy, or as easy as others say it is, you'll have problems unless you have a really expensive printer that's already tuned for nylon, that's just how this kind of plastic works, but once you get it to print, you get an incredibly strong and good looking part, that's well worth the effort. Let's go through some of the problems I experienced and how I fixed them. The first problem I had was that the filament was way too stringy, and popping sounds came from when it was being extruded. Any experienced printer nerd can tell you that my filament was moist and needed to be dried, which I did, by setting it on a glass plate and a cookie sheet in the oven at 180f overnight, go lower if you want to be safer. Next was when printing, on top of both a pie sheet and an ultrabase style bed at 80c, the parts would always warp off mid-print. This was solved through two fixes, first, in order to get the parts to stick better, I went over to McMasters and ordered a 12x12 1/16 sheet of blue garrolite (link below), and adding that on with a matching size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts. Also, it's worth noting that McMaster has these sheets for really cheap and they ship very fast, such an amazing tidbit I found through my journey. That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build plate which is past the glass transition temperature of the plastic, making it soft and easily susceptible to warping. Luckily, garrolite is an incredible bed material for nylon prints because it's nearly as sticky cold as it is hot. This is good because the first layer of the print with all the fine details and lines needs to be printed well, at higher temps (60-80c) but after that, you can drop the temperature down to below the glass transition temperature of nylon (I set my consecutive layers temp to around 45-55c), and after that, the part remains hard and resists its own warping. Yes, I'm aware that the real solution to this is a heated chamber and I'm only generating internal stresses, but a heated chamber was out of the question for me and a corporeal part was better than one that wasn't. Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had a direct drive I did have to kick up the retract length and speed a bit, and make sure your combing/wipe settings are on properly. Also, in some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to bridging (which is what the ceiling layers of a print have to do over the infill) so the gaps in the infill show up clearly on the top surface. This is easily fixable by either increasing your top layer count, or your infill percentage. After those fixes, this filament started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails). Also the filament kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber filled filament with how it looks, it's kind of matte a bit with a little sparkle, which does show up nice on the parts. On another note, you should definitely use this with an all-metal hotend, hardened steel tip, and preferably a geared extruder. I'm using a bmg extruder connected to an e3d v6 all metal hotend. Here are my current printer settings: Line width: 0.4mm outer walls 0.5mm everywhere else on a standard 0.4mm nozzle Speeds: 25mm/s outer walls 70 mm/s everywhere else Infill: 40% (for roof quality) Nozzle temp: 260c Heatbed temp: 80c first layer, 50c rest layers Retracts: 3mm at 40mm/s (on bmg direct drive with e3d v6 hotend, should be 7-8mm at 45mm/s for bowden) Cooling fan: None, with a 20s minimum layer time Layer height: 0.2 mm Z hop: none Any other settings could be left stock Here is the garrolite sheet selection on McMasters: https://www.mcmaster.com/garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/ Here is the adhesive sheet: https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Transfer-Double-Printer-Weupe/dp/B07BK8PHZK/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3M87LNGA7A3KR&dchild=1&keywords=adhesive%2Btransfer%2Btape&qid=1603090828&sprefix=adhesive%2Btrans%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-12&th=1 Have fun printing!

This is my first time printing with Nylon since I started with 3D printing. I usually print with Overture's PLA, PLA Pro and PETG, also great products. First thing I noticed is the new spool with 4x90deg holes on the sides to secure the filament while not in use. The original Overture spool had 3x120deg holes. The package is the standard Overture style: resealable bag, 200x200 print surface and a small ruler. After a few failed attempts, I finally managed to get a nice print, although I believe there is still room for further improvements. I did a lot of research on the web prior to start printing with Nylon and I got all sorts of directions, tips and tricks. However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if you are already familiar with PETG. However, whether you have a textured or smooth print surface, you will need to add water based glue (glue stick) to get proper adhesion. Interesting fact is that the first time I printed with Nylon, I did not use glue and the filament adhered to my textured bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface. So save yourself sometime and apply the glue right from the get go. My printers are in the coldest room in the house (66F - 68F), so instead of setting the bed temperature to 50C as described in the spool, I set it to 65C and it worked just fine. Hotend temperature was set to 250C for all layers to make sure layer to layer bonding. For this review, I used this cooling duct as it turns to be a good test print (small parts, thin walls , overhangs and bridging). I started printing with my part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely. Because of the combination of a high printing temperature (250C) and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to layer causing it to droop and look bad. Then I decided to go against the odds and I turned my fan ON at 50%. I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice. All you need to do is to define the fan lower / upper limits and the slicer does the rest based on the layer printing time. I set them all to 50% after the first 3 layers (settings snapshot in the pics) and the part still came out still incredibly strong. I tried to snap the string test to check for layer bonding and I was surprised by the fact that the piece kind of bent a little but did not snap. Nylon can be sticky very sticky at 250C, so keep your nozzle clean always clean before printing (the same applies to every filament). Although some people here mentioned the smell, I leave in an apartment and I did not smell anything at all. It was like I was printing PLA. But, again, I only printed small parts. Perhaps it will start smelling when I start printing larger pieces. For this print, here are my basic settings: Printer: CR-10S modified to DD with a Prusa Bear X axis and extruder (basically a larger Prusa MK3S) Slicer: Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 Hot end: 250C Bed: 65C with a layer of glue (water based. Once the print is done, you just need to brush the part and bed surface off with warm water or IPA) Cooling fan: 50% Retraction: 1.4mm @ 38 mm/s Print speed: 45mm/s Bridge speed: 40mm/s Bridge flow: 80% Other settings: Stock Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 MK3S profile Overall, the results were very satisfying and I highly recommend this filament. Don't be afraid of making mistakes. Give it a try and always pay attention to what your printer is doing so you can tweak and adjust your settings. UPDATE: I still need to tweak the overhang settings to avoid drooping. I tried to print a Benchy and the bow overhang was still coming out not too good with these settings.

Excellent easy to use nylon filament. I print on an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro with standard nozzle. This filament is not reinforced but is extremely strong. It has great adhesion using a glue stick on a PEI bed. I printed a gear of approximately 8 inches in diameter with no warping, no stringing and no adhesion problems. This is a great filament for those that need to print functional parts but don't want to become an expert in all the nuance of printing exotic materials. Great value.

First, I wouldn't say even "easy" nylon is for beginners - working with a PA-CF filament is going to be easier still because the carbon fiber mitigates a lot of issues nylon has on its own. That said, this is certainly easier than most, especially for pure nylon without any additional components. It's definitely not odorless (took off a star for this claim), but in my Bambu Lab X1C a very low chamber fan setting keeps the nasty stuff from going into the room. Don't try to print this quite as fast as PLA or anything, but you can get reliable results with excellent strength. The lack of CF also makes it tough to print with overhangs - part cooling can help but increases warping, and since most people who print nylon are quite concerned with dimensional accuracy, this can easily be a problem. Not the fault of this filament at all though. And as always, make sure it's dry - printing from a heated drybox is always a good idea and very necessary even in normal humidity, all nylon absorbs enough moisture to degrade your print within hours.

It's "easy" relative to other nylons, but not necessarily easy. I would say it's no more difficult than PETG, which has its own quirks. If you and your printer know how to print PETG, you can print this. The good: This makes extremely robust prints with excellent strength and layer adhesion. It does have a decent temp resistance, but there's some serious caveats with that. The print quality is quite lovely, with rich glossy black prints and a very nice surface feel. Doesn't need exceptionally high nozzle or bed temps, and doesn't produce an profound stank or odor. The mid: Finicky prints. Tolerances will vary because the material is rather hygroscopic. It absorbs moisture profoundly quick, and you'll absolutely need to dry it in an oven at about 95C for a few hours before you even think of printing it. A bone stock cheapo dryer that maxes out at 65C could do it, but it will take 3-4 days to dry out. I did 8 hrs in a convection oven at 95C. That temp tolerance thing mentioned on this, yeah, that's not the whole truth. This stuff gets increasingly softer and softer as cool as 50C. It doesn't fail, doesn't melt, but it gets kind of rubbery. It is not at all something I would want for anything hotter than about 60C. The bad: You can get closish with the generic PA profile, but this isn't generic PA. It's a CoPA. The print profiles on the Overture website are absolutely trash. This is my biggest gripe. The print speed is 3.6mm3/sec, the cooling is all wonked up, bunch of other things are just totally out of whack for modern DDE printers. Maybe if you have some 10 year old printer. These aren't even conservative profiles, they're simply not appropriate and it's disappointing they are not better dialed in. I wonder how many people bought this filament, used the Overture profile, and gave up figuring it must be broken. Overall, good price on this for what you get. Prints well, good layer adhesion, can work just fine on a PEI plate with some glue. Doesn't need any exotic printers or special handling (aside from total drying and printing from a drybox). Not an everyday material, but nice to have on the shelf.

First I printed some parts using a CR-10S in a custom enclosure. Stock hot-end and bed. I can tell that the hot-end has a hard time printing this with the amount of blobs, deformities and sometimes layer separation. However, surprisingly I was able to get functional parts that cleaned up nicely. Without a modded hot end on the CR-10 you are right on the edge of the machines capability when printing this material. I did notice that the first layer has a tendency to separate if printing under 260C on this machine. I had the bed set to 65C to help keep the warping to a minimum. After the prints are finished I found the best way to minimize warping is to cover them with a metal container and allow them to completely cool before removing them. I then printed the same parts on a Raise3d Pro2. I had good results with a 250C nozzle temp and 50C bed temp. Had to increase retraction to around 4.2mm and use a layer of PVA glue. Parts came out super nice with very minimal surface irregularities and zero delamination's. I could likely make them near perfect if I play around more with the settings but otherwise this material has been pretty easy to work with so far. I also annealed them as recommended but my oven can only go down to 170F. They did not warp at this temp. I submerged them in salt to help distribute even heat. Overall this material has been pretty easy to work with and I will definitely buy more.

This filament worked great initially. Nice cosmetics and no warping. I dried it for 6 hours in my filament dryer before doing two long prints. The remaining filament on the spool sat for a few days so I dried it again. Now anything that I print warps like crazy and lifts off of my glass print surface so the remaining filament is now useless. It would seem that about 10 hours of total drying time at 70 C has damaged the filament chemistry. I have had a similar experience with another brand of nylon so I suspect this problem is common to all nylon filaments. My recommendation is to use up the filament as quickly as possible. Anything left over may spoil.

I like Overture anyway, so I'm biased a little. They're not my #1 but I will use them when the price is right or my prime filament (eSun) is out of stock. I got a project request from a customer that needed a small nylon part. Woohoo! I've never printed in nylon before, only ever used PLA and dabbled in PETG. Honestly, I was a bit scared of it! This was my big chance. I started reading up and all the sites said I needed an enclosure to maintain heat or the print would warp. Ug. I have a CR-10 Max (it's huge) and the cheapest ready-made enclosure available is $700. Even building a hack-job enclosure myself was going to cost at least $100 and several trips to Home Depot, which is hard to justify for one lousy, rather small print job. Another site said I needed to vent to the outdoors. There's another $50. And, I was looking at a few nights and weekends to put it all together. Yes, then I could print Nylon whenever I wanted and ABS and blah, blah. I just don't have the energy for it right now. (I'm old.) Yet another site said I should get some Magigoo (which I did order but it hasn't arrived yet) to get bed adhesion. Well, that's another $30 at least. Give me a break!!! It turned out that I didn't need any of that when printing with OVERTURE Easy Nylon Filament. For some reason, the product title doesn't say 'Easy' (it's written on the spool) but it should! That's a great way to describe this experience. It was easy. Almost PLA easy and much easier than I ever expected. I decided to just try it without all that just to see what would happen. I decided to treat it like PLA and see how things came out. The only thing I did differently than PLA is ventilation in the room and temps. I know there would be fumes - we are melting plastic after all - so I opened a window and propped a fan in it. I turned on the central AC fan only to create some positive pressure in the room and I stuffed some towels under the door. I have pets and kids so I don't want the fumes in my house. I have a HEPA filter so I cranked that up to high. And...that's about it. I was concerned that the ventilation would cool the nylon off too much and it would warp but it didn't seem to matter. Here are the settings I used: 50º C bed. I'm using a Wham Bam Pex flexible bed which is rated for Nylon. I already had this. 250º C hot end. I use a Micro Swiss all-metal hot end with a .4mm hardened nozzle. First layer 104% width 6mm retraction at 30mm/s since I'm using a Bowden tube. A skirt but offset (not touching) the object No part cooling. Set the fan to 0%. Printed at 50mm/s Note that these are all the same settings (except hot end temp) that I use with PLA+. That's right, this filament prints more or less like PLA!!!!! And, my print was all but perfect. A tiny string coming off of one corner. Which, if you know 3D printing, that IS a perfect print. Anything less than 1 minute of cleanup is perfect in my book and this was literally 5 seconds of cleanup. Who are these wizards at OVERTURE and why isn't all nylon like this? OK, let's talk about smell. It does smell, even in a vented room. It's not terrible - I'm sitting in the room as I type this - but I'd say you probably don't want to be around it. It's a warm plastic smell, as one might expect. I don't know if it lingers after the print is done. I'll update this review if it does but I assume it won't. [[UPDATE: after printing (6 hours) I left the room for a few hours as described above. Then, I had to go to bed so I closed the window, sealing the room, and left the hepa running overnight. The smell was 30% less in the morning. I then opened everything up and the smell was gone after 24 hours. This is not ideal but it’s good enough to let me occasionally print with nylon. If I start printing a lot with it, I’ll look to move the printer to my garage or somewhere the smell doesn’t matter. Or (sigh) build an enclosure. ]] The price was excellent. Less than $30 for a kilo spool. I'm tempted to buy another one because I know they'll increase the price when it gets popular. And, I'm betting it will get popular as soon as more reviews come in. When I bought it, there were no reviews or ratings so it was a bit of a chance... Let's add this up. Let's say $30 for the spool. -$150 for an enclosure I didn't need. -$50 for a vent I didn't need. -$1000 for the time saved not setting up said enclosure and vent. All told, this magic filament saved me $1170 (or $170 if you don't count the labor). If I had chosen any other nylon, I'll be I would have had to spend every penny of that. This is real savings. [edit: I forgot to credit in the cost of the Magigoo which I didn’t need.] I said at the outset that Overture wasn't my #1. I'm thinking really hard about changing my mind. I'll say this, for Nylon I will not buy any other brand unless I absolutely have to. This has been a fun weekend!

いつも使用している他メーカーのフィラメントが品切れだったので、こちらを試してみました。 最初は綺麗に印刷されリピート品になるかなと思ったのですが、残り3分の1ぐらいになるともつれが酷くなり、供給がストップされてしまいました。 ーー 後日追記 ーー もつれが酷いとレビューしましたが、私がフィラメント交換の際に先端が他のフィラメントの下に潜った状態で交換してしまっていたようです。 もつれを修正してから再セットして印刷するとその後もつれることはありませんでした。

PLA PROFESSIONAL Whiteを開封直後に使用。プチプチ音はなく、よく乾燥した状態でのレビューです。 【出力条件】 機種はANYCUBIC Vyper 簡単に条件出しして、ヘッド190℃、ベッド60℃、1層目速度40mm/s・以降60mm/s、ファン使用とした。 【出力物の質感】 マット質感。間違いなくフィラー入り。 色味は純白、コールドホワイト一歩手前くらい。 【強度・層間接着】 Stiffness＝堅さが高く、ImpactStrength＝柔軟性は若干だけある。 一般的なPLAより少しだけ壊れにくいかと。 層間接着は190℃の低温出力でも良好なので、構造の工夫で強度が担保できる。 【ベッド定着】 やや弱め。ケープ＋ベッド加熱＋ラフトかブリムを推奨。 【熱収縮率・寸法精度】 熱収縮が大きく、寸法精度は安定しない。 大型出力物では反ると思う。 オーバーハングには強くも弱くもない。 一般的なマットPLAを使っている感覚。 結論、小～中型の寸法にシビアでない出力物に向いている。 なんでマットPLAとして販売しないのかが謎。

安価なフィラメントの中では個人的に優秀だと思います。 今まで細かい物の印刷時に糸状の副産物ができてしまいましたが、その点これは殆ど出来ません。 色味も質感もかなり満足しています！

プリンターはADV3です。今までPLA+はeSun、ToAuTo、RepRapperを使ってきましたが、今回は容易に使えません、eSunかRepRapperに戻ります、残念。 温度は指定の190～220℃でふって試しましたが、コンコンして詰まる、スピードも70mm/sから初めてだめで結局40mm/sで安定。スプールの巻もいまいちで条件出し中に２回からみました。個人的にはPLAとしては使い難い。 ーーー追記修正ーーー 再度条件出しトライ中。温度は220-230℃ぐらいが成功率高くはなった。時々詰まる。他の材料で試すとうまくいくのですが。。。 販売元に相談したら、速やかに返金処理の提案がありました。その点は感謝です。