32-1/4 Inches Heavy Duty Iron Deck Balusters Furniture with Screws for Facemount Railing Fencing, Arc Arch Style (50-Pack, Matte Black)

easy to install and look great on my outdoor staircase that I built. I never substitute quality for price but was impressed with the value for the money.

The Myard 32-Inch Classic Hollow Round Iron Deck Balusters are a fantastic upgrade for any deck or porch railing. They offer a sleek, modern look while being durable and easy to install, making them a great choice for both DIYers and professionals. 🔥 Why These Balusters Stand Out: ✅ Strong & Durable – Made from hollow iron, these balusters are lightweight yet sturdy, holding up against weather and wear. ✅ Sleek & Modern Look – The classic round design adds an elegant touch to any deck or porch. ✅ Easy to Install – Works perfectly with standard railing systems, and the consistent sizing ensures a smooth installation process. ✅ Weather-Resistant Coating – The powder-coated finish helps prevent rust and corrosion, keeping them looking great for years. ✅ Great Value Pack – 50-pack is perfect for larger projects and makes it more cost-effective than buying individually. I used these to upgrade my wood deck railing, and the difference is night and day. The balusters elevate the overall look, and the installation was a breeze. If you're looking for sturdy, stylish, and long-lasting deck balusters, these are a great buy! Highly recommend!

Used these to replace my deck railing. Looks really nice. Good quality.

The product was exactly as described. I loved that each bar was individually wrapped to prevent scratching during shipping. We haven't quite finished the deck yet but decided to provide a picture. The only reason it didn't get 5 stars is because the screws were not quite as heavy duty as the rods and were sheet metal screws not wood screws. In addition, the product can only be bought in 25 rod increments. When we were close to finishing we needed 5 additional rods but had to purchase another 25 in order to finish up. It would have been nice to be able to purchase individual rods or in 5 rod increments.

Building a deck rail was intimidating, but with these balusters, and the connectors - I got in my groove and became a pro! I'll try and post pictures. I originally ordered the 32" but then returned them for the 29" and am really happy that I did. The 32" is great if you are going from the floor up - but I wanted some space so that I could easily sweep stuff off the porch, and I didn't want cedar wood touching the trex flooring because it get's so wet where I live, that it just didn't make sense to shorten the life of my lumber by purposely putting it down on the floor. Anyway, this was a great product - they are heavy duty, but light weight if that makes sense. Just dont' let them fall on bumpy concrete or you will see dimples of the metal under the black coating. I dropped them several times - and the finish is GREAT - again, just don't drop them on sharp rocks, or rocky concrete. Have fun! Watch a video! It's EASY. I did a 16 x 16 deck! I'm working on two gates now!

I needed to do a repair of my parent's front porch railings, which had rotted out after almost 50 years of living in the house. I ended up deciding that it would be more effective to tear off the railings on both sides and totally replace them. I decided to go with powder coated metal vs painted wooden balusters to eliminate the possibility of them rotting out in the future. I checked out Home Depot, they had black round aluminum rails, but they were significantly more expensive than the ones here, and only came in packs of 10. Since I needed 24 rails (12 for each side of the porch) buying a pack of 25 was more cost effective than 3 packs of 10. I did want black, and the only remaining colors on Amazon for this size rail were gray and green, so I purchased the gray and ended up buying a can of black spray paint to color the balusters. This worked out great. In planning out the project, I decided on the round balusters vs square because I ended up needing to build the supporting wooden rails from scratch using 2x4s, and I didn't have an easy way to cut square recessed holes to hold the balusters. Home Depot and Lowes both sell wooden railings that are pre-cut for use in this type of application, but I found that all of the stock in the stores was so badly warped as to be totally unusable. This is typical since they use fast-growing softwood sourced from China with wide growth rings that is not kiln dried, so it is not dimensionally stable and typically warps and twists as the wood dries out. I purchased two ground-rated treated 2x4s for the bottom railings since water will drain downwards and possibly collect on the bottom rails, but opted for 4 kiln dried 2x4s for the top railings and handrails, since these were lighter, cheaper, and it was easier to select boards with fewer blemishes and minimal warping or twisting. Even though I was cutting sockets into the railings, I opted to use 3/4" round plastic baluster connectors to hold the aluminum poles in place, for a more secure and cleaner looking installation. These were screwed into the sockets holes, which were drilled approximately 1/2" deep. To cut the sockets for the balusters in the top and bottom rails, I used forstner bits to get clean holes with a flat bottom. I originally cut the bottom rails with a 3/4" forstner bit, but when I test inserted the rails into the sockets it cut, I found the fit to be too tight, with the baluster having to be forcefully wedged into the holes. This was acceptable (and possibly even preferable to keep water from draining into the bottom socket holes) for the bottom rails, but I needed to use a 13/16" forstner bit to cut the holes in the top railing to ensure there was enough clearance to allow the balusters to easily be fully inserted into the top railing. The top and bottom 2x4 rails containing the baluster sockets were oriented vertically, with the remaining 2x4s turned horizontally and mounted onto the top railing, to act as handrails. These top handrails were shaped with a router to round off the sides and add a decorative shape. Additionally, a 1 1/2" slot was cut into the center of the bottom side of the handrails, 1/2" deep, to allow them to be cleanly mounted onto the top edge of the upper railing. Attaching the handrails onto top rails was accomplished by using 4" long deck screws when securing the plastic baluster connectors into the sockets that had been cut into the top railings. The rails were attached to the house using black nylon bracket connectors, which mount on the ends of the vertically oriented 2x4 railings. To account for the 1/4" thickness of the mounting brackets, the handrails needed to be cut 1/2" longer than the railing they are mounted on (thus the handrails are cut to the actual length of the opening the are being fit into, while the rails are 1/2" shorter). A bit of grinding needed to be done on the top edge of the plastic mounting brackets to provide clearance for the handrails due to the 1/2" deep slot into which the rails are inserted. Before assembling the railing (after cutting to length and all drilling, shaping and slot cutting was done), the wood was painted with first a primer, and then a final finished coat of exterior grade paint. Painting at this stage is MUCH cleaner and easier than trying to paint the rails after they have been fully installed. The plastic baluster connectors were then inserted to the bottom rails and attached using 1 1/2" deck screws (I pre-drilled the holes for easier screw insertion), and the nylon mounting brackets were attached to the ends of the rails (no pre-drilling needed, since they are going into the end grain of the wood), making sure that the brackets were oriented in the proper direction. To prepare the top rail, the center of each of the socket holes was pre-drilled through the entire 3 1/2" width of the 2x4. It was then laid in the 1 1/2" slot cut into the matching hand rail, being careful to center it perfectly, leaving exactly 1/4" of the handrail extended beyond the vertical rail on each side. The baluster connectors were then placed into the sockets, and screwed in using the 4" long deck screws while pressing the railing firmly into the handrail to prevent a gap from forming when the screw entered the handrail. This was repeated for each of the sockets / baluster connectors. Once the handrails were fully attached to the rails, the mounting brackets were screwed onto to the ends of the vertical rails. The bottom railings on each side were attached to the house first, using a level to ensure a perfectly horizontal rail, and the aluminum balusters were inserted (in my case forcefully pushed, wedging them in tight) into the sockets containing the baluster connectors. The top rail/handrail unit was then placed on top of the balusters while centering each of the aluminum balusters and allowing them to slide into sockets and around the baluster connectors. The handrail was then leveled and the mounting brackets secured to the house. Project complete! Notes: Whenever doing repair work on a house, you can never assume that any surface is level or square, and so every section must be measured carefully. In my case that meant that the lengths of the railings needed to be individually measured on both sides, on the top and bottom. It turned out that each section had a slightly different opening width, so there were actually 4 different widths I had to work with. There was a total of about an inch difference in the length between the longest and shortest section. Since the rails need to fit snugly into the opening, it would have been disastrous if I had made 1 measurement and just assumed all of the rest would be the same. Next, when installing railings, you need to remember that in most localities there is a building code that specifies certain requirements. There is a limited range of acceptable heights for the upper rail; if you make the replacement approximately the same height as the original one, you should be fine. Also, most local building codes require that any open spaces in the railing structure (such as the gap under the bottom rail and the spaces between balusters) must be less than 4" in size. This is to prevent the head of a small child from being able to slide through the structure. If you are using balusters that have a different width than the original ones, you may need to change the number of them to keep the spacing between them acceptable. In my case, the original rails used a total of 11 1" wide wooden balusters. In order to use the 3/4" diameter aluminum balusters in this listing, I had to add a 12th baluster on each side to keep the gap between them less than 4". Lastly, If the length of your rails is long enough, you will need to support the bottom rails along the span at various places. Since my rail length was less than 60", I technically wasn't required to add any bottom supports, but I placed one in the middle of the span anyway for additional strength and to help prevent any warping of the bottom rail that may occur over time.

Easy to apply, solid, finished look is very nice

My dad asked me to get these for building our deck because they’re much easier to install than the drill a hole ones .. Home Depot and Lowe’s didn’t have these on website (this length 32 1/4) which is a standard size for deck railing. My order from Home hardware got cancelled without explanation so had to order from Amazon. It’s metal not aluminum, you won’t even know the difference in aesthetic. I guess it’s heavier and cheaper. It’s super durable you can tell Sooo easy to install you just drill screw (included) in to attach. Saved us time and we installed in 2 hours! Looks beautiful They were sufficiently (not bulky) packed 25 in a box with each individual ones in plastic slip Delivery was 2 days faster than promised. People mentioned the holes don’t align, ours were all perfectly aligned in all 4 boxes. Extra screws were included

I was/am using these as spindles but also I'm using them to help cross brace some stairs. As spindles, they do what they are supposed to do and they look just like advertised. Good value for money. As supports, since I tried to weld them, they were too thin and I just burned through them. I found a work-around by adding steel into the hollow cross-sections, so that I could get them to act as braces, but.... stick to their intended use and they are fine!

We ordered this for our deck and could not be happier with them. Great quality and easy to use. Our deck looks great. They arrived quickly and in very good shape. Thanks

Not as described- missing all the screws , every box I got had none in them . Balusters seem real nice but now I’m going to have to go out and match size & colour for all of these.

Finished product was good