Detroit Axle - AWD Front 13pc Suspension Kit for 1999-2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 GMC Sierra Avalanche Suburban Yukon XL 1500 Tahoe Escalade ESV EXT, Upper Control Arm Lower Ball Joint Sway Bar Tie Rod

Currently in the middle of working on my 2005 avalanche 1500 5.3 front end. Ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links, upper control arm, pitman arm, idler arm bracket pivot and the idler arm. When the parts arrived, nothing was missing. Everything was there. Got everything on except the pitman arm. The pitman is the only thing left. The picture shows the ball joints, upper control arm, sway bar links, and inner and outer tie rods. The parts seem really nice and sturdy. A buddy of mine has recommended Detroit Axle because they are the lower budget friendly option of a kit. Was originally going to buy each part individually, but then he showed me this. The ball joints is what needed replaced and the idler and pitman arm, but I decided to buy this kit and do the others. Now installing can be easy or difficult depending on the old parts that have rust on them. My truck is 21 years old and every bolt and part was rusted and all all parts had to be beaten with hammers or cut with a grinder or sawzaw. But after that, getting the new parts on is very easy. As far as actually seeing how the new hold up, i won't know til the truck is completed and gets and alignment very soon. Will do an update later on maybe in a couple of weeks or a month or so. But if you are on a budget as far as price, I'm sure there wouldn't be any problems.

Definitely worth the money it helps you out if you’re working on a tight budget had mine for 3 years and I do a lot of mild muddin so you get what you pay I’d prefer duralast or moog parts but I can’t afford them but this is budget friendly here

Edit 2020-09-25: Well quality is somewhat questionable. One of the rubber covers on sway bar links cracked. There is a occasional weird noise come when turning the steering wheel. So may have to check/replace some of these parts this year or next year. 2010 Mazda 5. Replaced Lower Control arms and Sway bar links using this kit. Was going to change wheel bearing and since I took everything out thought to replace the warn ball joints. But after seeing the price of the whole kit, thought to replace the whole arms along with ball joints and bushings etc. Now the car drives really well. Had to get an alignment done after. No complaints, this was the first time I replaced these parts. You definitely need to rent Ball Joint Separator, Tie rod Arm Puller/Pitman Arm Puller from Auto Parts retailer. I used 1. Powerbuilt Tools Kit 43, Reversible Gear Jaw Puller Kit (Part # 648613): used the largest one to push the front axel away from the hub assembly. Grab the rotor with 3 arms and push the axel with the screw/center rod of the puller. 2. Powerbuilt Tools Kit 3, Front End Service Kit (Part # 648626): to separate the ball joints from the arms. Don't use hammer or any other tool to bang/strike or split as shown in many Utube videos. That will damage parts, I learned it hard way. With above tools you can get the job done quicker & easily. Plus they are free (once you return the tool back to the store)

All parts were a breeze to install and feel like good quality with the exception of the inner tie rod boots/rack bellows. They did not fit and had to get different ones but all in all a good kit

This kit is the perfect fix for your early 2000's Dodge Ram 1500 pickup truck, which is almost certainly squeaking like a rusted hinge on a back door by now. The factory upper control arm is cast aluminum, which while having nearly as much strength as the cast steel upper control arm in this kit, tends to fail spectacularly, so this is somewhat of an upgrade over factory. Also, these are NOT so-called "maintenance free" fittings, so you will have to remember to periodically shoot some grease in them. (Maintenance Free is a euphemism for "designed to fail and be replaced".) On that note: - These come with the grease fittings loose, and you will have to install them with wrench. Not a hard job, but do not torque them. They only need to be snugged up, not muscled. You can strip them. - When it comes time to replace the lower ball joint, you will need to grind out the tabbed portions before you try to press them out. They won't come out otherwise, and you can actually break the lower control arm trying to do so. - If you don't have the special tool for putting the metal bands on the boots, you can zip tie them in place with 1/4" zip ties. There's not a lot of stress put on these. - The parts of the suspension related to alignment are the tie rods and the upper control arm. When you assemble the tie rods, try to get them to the exact same length as the ones you removed. On the upper control arm, use a scribe to mark around the perimeter of the washers/bolts, and when you put the new arm in, do your best to align them. This won't give you perfect caster, camber, and toe, but it will be good enough to drive to the alignment shop. - When you come to pressing int he new lower ball joint, be mindful of what direction the fitting is facing. If you point it towards the wheel hub OR the control arm, it will not be accessible to a grease gun. I pointed mine backwards because it makes it look like it's going fast. -This kit does not include the lower control arm bushings. I strongly recommend you order those and replace them as well, since you're going to taking it all apart anyway. Better still, you may consider ordering replacement lower control arms. It will be more than twice as expensive as just getting the bushings and ball joints, but it will cut out about 1/3rd the time you spend on the job. Do you want to be banging on the lower control arm, or do you want to be throwing back a brew and admiring the results of your manly work? Do the math. - Finally... just expect that one or both of the lower ball joints will be seized to the pitman arm, and no amount of hammering on a pickle fork will the two separate. And unless you have an acetylene torch rig, you're not going to be able to heat up the pittman arm to help it along. If a few minutes of hard whacking doesn't get it off (stop laughing), then save yourself a lot of heartache and just use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel to get it apart. Later you can punch the leftover stud out. Which kind of makes you the stud. Good luck!

Worked like a charm

Three months into driving on these parts not even 3000 miles the sway bar and links came loose and we’re clacking around. Noticed that the outer tire rod bolt is stripped off. I replace that with moog. three months after that a ball joint snapped on me while I was driving and slam into a concrete barrier on the highway rusted to the core. So I had a mechanic replaced the ball joint and a bad tire rod and then I went to go get an alignment tech could not do it due to the other bad ball joint being bad as well as the two sway bar and links were completely shot and needs replaced. Saul happened in about six months and about 5000 miles my vehicle is stock. Contacted customer service they requested I call them after calling them they stated I will need to buy the parts again from them and send back the old original parts and they would examine the parts to find out if they would be covered under warranty and then refund me at that point. As I do not have the original parts as I had a mechanic replace them for me I requested if I could send them copies of the receipts showing that they were replaced and they said that would not suffice and then I asked them for about the parts that I did have if they would be covered under the warranty due to the damage being caused by their part failing and they told me it would not be covered under warranty and then while still asking they hung up on me because I was not willing to pay them. The amount of damage to the front of my car tires and other parts is 20 times the cost of their parts. Lesson to learn I will be filing a complaint with the Better Business Bureau and hopes that they Will use a better quality alloy while making their parts one that does not strip or snap as easily as theres do

funcionan perfecto

everything fit good on my 2003 chevy 1500 4x4

This kit fits perfectly onto a 2008 chevy 3500hd dually, I highly recommend.

Les pièces sont de bonne qualité, elles s'adaptent bien à ma voiture.

購入したものの。 到着まで1月程は気長に待ってたので良かったもの。 到着後ものを確認したところ。 左側の部品が２つ届きました。 しかも形が違うもので。

Everything worked out so perfect,my truck is now in good condition