Hayward GLX-PCB-MAIN Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Hayward Goldline AquaLogic and AquaPlus Automation Systems

Yup, I got the dreaded "No Cell Power" message about 6 weeks ago. Googled it and found that this was a common error. I did everything the DIY sites suggested. I soldered the defective part about a dozen times. But nothing seemed to work. I read that to get everything fixed would cost about $800. Then I stumbled upon the Amazon site selling a replacement board for about half that. I figured I would try it though I was worried that I wouldn't be able to replace the defective board myself (I'm not exactly a handy guy). Got the replacement in about a week and it only took me about an hour to install! Realize, I was VERY slow and deliberate in what I was doing. I wanted to make sure everything was right so I was crazy careful. The instructions were relatively clear. All you need to be is very careful that you hook everything up the exact same way. Take pictures of the old board/wiring beforehand to use as a guide. I'm not usually a DIYer, but this was a breeze! Only two things were difficult: 1) some of the wire connections were very tight and hard to get to (especially if you have fat fingers like me!). So make sure you have a needle-nose set of pliers. 2) I had forgotten how to unlock the configuration menu. But one call to the help line and I was able to get everything set (you need to press both "arrow" buttons at the same time). It's been about 10 days now and everything is working perfectly! Pool looks great and I was able to save a bunch of money. By the way, after replacing the old defective board, I looked at the relay switch in question. It was TOTALLY fried! No amount of re-soldering was going to make a difference. So if you re-solder it and that doesn't solve the problem right away, replace the board. And don't worry, if I can do it by myself, ANYONE can! Thanks Amazon for a great product and super-fast delivery

Not wishing to have my pool company replace my 3rd board in 8 years (at a cost of $600-800) with a new 4th board, I decided to try doing it myself. Turned out well but there are a few things you need to know before you start: 1) Spend fifteen or twenty minutes viewing and recording the settings for the various parameters -- Configuration, Settings, Timers -- on the old board. The new board has none of them and won't until you re-program it. 2) Record where the external connections plug into the old board. A camera works OK for the left and center sections of the old board. The 12 spaded connections at the right edge of the board are easy to handle and can be transferred one at a time from the old board to the new board. My only difficulty was in understanding how the board was attached to the frame and why just loosening the two screws at the bottom of the board wasn't enough to free the board. Turns out the 6 plastic stand-off's on the back of the board have circular grooves that fit into keyhole slots in the frame and they're what hold the board in place. The two hex-head screws at the bottom of the board are there simply to hold the board in place. To remove the board, loosen the two hex-head screws but DON'T remove them. Then gently slide the board up until the plastic anchors come free of the keyhole slots and then tilt the board out and away from the frame. Simple when you know how. Also, the four long plastic stand-off's (that hold the display unit) attach to the board with a plastic spring clip at the rear of board. To remove them, squeeze the spring clip with a pair of pliers -- needle-nose works well and is also good for removing the spade connectors -- while *gently* pulling the stand-off away from the front of the board. I wasn't too gentle at first and had to glue two of them in place on the new board. Live and learn. I can't say how long this board will last as I only installed it two days ago, however I'm no worse off than if I had the pool company do it -- and I saved over half the cost by doing it myself.

My old card went out and the chlorination did not work. In three days the pool water was dark green and we expected a heat wave towards the end of the week in the triple digit AND the 4 of July weekend was a few days ahead. I searched local pool maintenance and repair places and was told that the repair would cost $900 plus. I called local supply stores and they gave me equally exorbitant prices for the control board. Finally I came across this Amazon site and found the price to be reasonable. I ordered it and was messaged that the part would arrive anywhere between July 2 - 8. I messaged back and let them know of my situation and asked if they could expedite so the July 4th weekend would not delay my order. They not only expedited, they sent it overnight and I received it the next day! The instructions were easy and the board was installed with no problem. Not familiar with the programming of the board to enable the chlorination, I called and the technical support was great. Over the phone I was instructed on how to enable the board and now I am a very satisfied customer. I will definitely recommend them to anyone that needs this type of pool repair assistance.

My Hayward Goldline Aqua Plus system stopped working properly. This circuit board solved the problem. It was very easy to install. All the wires are color coded and the connections on the circuit board are labeled with what color goes to each connection. You just match the color wire to the connection calling for that color. That's it! It works perfectly. The system performs just like new. Great product.

For those that may be wondering, this is a Hayward board with Hayward instruction sheets. The board is new, not remanufactured. All components swapped over and plugged in without a problem.

I was getting HIGH SALT/HIGH CURRENT messages from my Aqua Logic (AQL P-4) pool controller and my T-15 Cell was not generating chlorine. Initially I scheduled an service call with a pool store (two weeks out) to repair. The pool store estimate was $525 for board and $250 for labor. I started reading other reviews for this on Amazon and realized I could replace this part. The Hayward GLX-PCB-MAIN controller board comes with very good instructions and color coded wiring diagrams. I installed the new board in under an hour (being slow and cautious. If you decide to do this remember to go through all the setup menus and record your configuration BEFORE cutting off power. Also use your cell phone and take several photos of the connections and connector blocks before you dis-assemble in case you have questions later. I noticed old board had a burned solder spot on the cell relay that resembled a cold-solder joint. I wish I had tried to fix that before ordering a new board but I am very happy with how quickly I was able to get my pool back in service.

I thought this was the answer to all of my issues. After soldering the original mother board 6 times, I decided to get this replacement. It was super easy to install, however, it never talked to the remote controls. When I called Hayward customer support, they told me to call a dealer. I called three, no one knew how to help me. So I relinquished to the fact that I was not going to be able use my remotes. Then, about a month ago, I got a communication error 2. Looked up on the Hayward website what to do, followed along the flow chart and ended up at call Hayward customer support. Guess what? They told me to go to a dealer. Now I have no salt system, no timer, no support and I went to 2 dealers and nobody knew what to do to help me. One guy even sat on hold with Hayward himself and got nowhere. So, after not having a timer, we were starting our relatively new two stage pump from the pump itself. Then that went down. So long story short, my "savings" of $1000 is now costing me more because I am ditching the entire Hayward system. I will be replacing the salt cell, the pump and the automation with a company that still has customer service.

Easy to install and worked first time out. Diagrams and the plug and play wires make changing the board easy. Previous posts recommending writing down all the previous configuration settings helped immensely. I have a salt system and the only issue that I've had is that the previous setting for % pool chlorination was set at 80%, but this created a very high level of free chlorine in the pool after replacing the PCB. I've had to back it down to about 20% to keep the chlorine at 2-3 PPM. Not sure why this happened but seems to be working fine after 3-4 weeks. BTW -- The configuration settings were locked and since I didn't have a manual for the Goldline system, I had to go on line to find out how to unlock them. It is pretty easy, just hold the 2 arrow buttons down at the same time for about 3 seconds and it unlocks the system. Not touching any buttons for about a minute relocks the system.

The price was $400. Cheaper than the pool store for the same product. It was fairly easy to install, take pictures of the old one before you replace it. My chlorinator was not functioning due to a burned relay, it fixed the problem. Very satisfied, I installed it about 3 weeks ago.

Easy to install but take videos and images of all cables and CONFIGURATION settings. You will need to configure the base settings. Unit works flawlessly now for two weeks. I tinkered for three years with the previous panel with the soldering technique every season and replacing the T-Cell.

Easy to install and worked right away.

Got this to replace board that was burnt out based on the high salt levels. Was able to replace without issue using some of the helpful videos on youtube but I did have a couple of extra connections as the old one did support automatic PH balancing but wasn't use it so it was fine. One nice thing is I notice now with this new board it will shut off if high salt will cause anything to overheat

Nothing to dislike. It was plug and play and solved my 'No Cell Power' error from the previous board, which was a known defect.