OREI eARC 4K 60Hz Audio Extractor Converter 18G HDMI 2.0 ARC Support - HDCP 2.2 - Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR, Dolby Vision Supported (HDA-927)

I purchased a new 4K TV (98” TCL) but I am still pairing it a non-4K non-eARC receiver (Denon AVR-5308ci), so I needed an eARC extractor to get the audio from the TV to the receiver. After researching various recommendations on the AVS Forum, it sounded like the recommended devices were the devices made by ThenAudio and HD Fury, which run the int $250-$400 range. I purchased the ThenAudio Zone2Pro from their website, but it performed poorly. Half the time, I would get no signal, or the signal was unstable and would exhibit drop-outs if it was anything other than 2 channel stereo. The problems were worse with Apple TV, but also my Sony 4K Ultra HD player. Worst of all, sometimes when the sound was not properly outputting, I would suddenly output very loud tweeter-blow-out white noise that would generate complaints from everyone in the house. I didn’t know if the problem was with the ThenAudio eARC extractor, the TV’s eARC implementation, or if eARC itself is just an unreliable inconsistent technology. The only way to tell was to get another eARC extractor. I didn’t want to buy the HD Fury, so I decided to buy the best reviewed eARC extractor on Amazon, which was this OREI, at less than 1/5 the price of the audiophile Zone2Pro. I didn’t have high hopes for it, but I’m glad I bought it. It worked exactly the way it was supposed to, in a very consistent manner, without any of the problems that I had with the Zone2Pro. Rock solid reliable eARC extraction, without any of the speaker-damaging white noise or extraction failure, and at 1/5 the price. This may not work as well for others, but for,my combination of equipment, it worked perfectly, and way better than the ThenAudio Zone2Pro. I don’t know how well the HD Fury product works, but given the much lower cost of this OREI product, I would certainly start here with the OREI. Edit: I reached out to ThenAudio to see if there was an issue with the Zone2Pro. I did flip a DIP switch on it to turn off Dolby MAT. I let you know if that helps with the white noise surges and drop-out. Still, the OREI is way cheaper and achieves the desired result.

Like a lot of people, I have a new TV with eARC, but my receiver is only ARC. I installed it and it worked fine for 20 minutes before it would reset the audio connection. It appeared to be a HDCP handshake issue. I tried different HDMI cables, different HDMI input on my receiver, and powering the device from the TV and a wall outlet. It did’t matter it would reset briefly and resync. Going to return it.

This seemed a bit clunky to set up, since it uses DIP switches to set the function. The manual is tiny and the print so small it was hard to determine the settings. Still, once I got it configured correctly this worked in my application: sending audio only through HDMI/ARC from a 4K projector (with a 4K Roku stick on one input) to a now-15-year-old receiver. I'd just upgraded the projector from 1080p to 4K, and if I fed the video from the receiver end I could only get 1080p at the projector. Using this extractor I can maintain 4K video and send the audio to the outdated receiver (still getting 5.1 or Dolby there) without having to invest $500+ in a new receiver that is eARC compatible. So for $40 this saved me a $500 upgrade. It took a bunch of messing with to set up, but once it was working it seemed consistent. Hopefully it's indeed a set-and-forget solution to my problem.

I got this to eARC enable my Marantz SR7010 AVR which has working ARC support - to my new Hisense U7K w/ eARC HDMI 2.1 support. With ARC you only get up to 1.5Gbps audio; ATMOS 5.1 core, DD, DTS, and a lesser quality version of ATMOS. Modern BD and UHD based movies primarily use DTS-MA, TrueHD ATMOS which are only available on eARC equipped systems (18-48Gbps bandwidth) I left both dip switches "On" for eARC and EDID (since my AVR supports all current audio formats) and after testing various "ultra hdmi" or "hdmi with ethernet" cables I was able to get up to DTS-MA 7.1 on my AVR - but TrueHD 7.1 would not work. Just to make sure I ordered new HDMI 8K ethernet 2.1 cables and that not impact the result. I used the eARC/ARC port on the TV to the adapter OUT 1 port; AVR non ARC port (HDMI 1) to adapter OUT 2 port. When testing I found I had to completely turn off and unplug the TV, AVR, and this adapter to ensure any change to the setup would be picked up. Once I figured this out I went through a methodical process testing various combinations of adapter and AVR/TV HDMI settings. The TV says it's outputting "MAT" which is TrueHD/ATMOS but all I get is silence via Plex app on TV. I had to switch to the embedded 5.1 audio track to get any sound. Beyond the audio; CEC mostly worked. Turning off/on of the AVR does not always work. Turning off the AVR after initially using it and turning it back on usually resulted in no audio which as only correctable by restarting everything (but not restarting the adapter). HDMI compatibility can be hit and miss and this is mostly due to the optional nature of the standard - format-wise; vendors can pick and choose what and how they want support various capabilities and that can cause issues. The older the HW the more likely issues can arise - it's just the nature of technology. To be sure I bet this can work just fine for folks who use sound bars or other non true home theater 7.1 (and/or Atmos) setups as the most they need is a low bit rate 5.1 audio track - but for those that can take advantage of all a 7.1/ DTS-MA HD/Atmos, etc. formats has to offer it may fall short for you depending upon your equipment. In reality for the price, ease-of-use, and size it's probably worth a try; it's just going to be YMMV

Works well, but the documentation is skimpy, and connections are not intuitive for my particular use case. I have an older Amp which has HDMI inputs that do not support ARC/eARC. I wanted to route sound from my new TV's HDMI-ARC/eARC connection to that old AMP. The OREI HDA-927 does the job, but the hookup needed is slightly strange: - Connect TV's HDMI-ARC/eARC to the OREI's "OUT1 eARC/ARC" jack - Connect the OREI's "OUT2 Audio" jack to the AMP's HDMI input. - Nothing connected to the OREI's "Input" jack. - Set the OREI's eARC switch to "ON" - Set the OREI's EDID switch to "OUT2" In this configuration, the OREI receives audio from the TV via ARC/eARC into the OUT1 jack and then transmits it on the OUT2 jack as standard HDMI (not ARC/eARC). Also, setting the EDID switch to "OUT2", where the AMP is connected, lets the TV see the AMP's EDID and capabilities. Works great, including Dolby/DTS (I can't test Atmos because my Amp doesn't support it). But some head-scratching could have been saved if the documentation included an example of the above scenario.

TL So for the better part of 4+ months I've been working with a unit that after taxes and shipping was more than 6x more expensive than this unit (though that other unit has more functionality). I only bought this unit out of complete frustration from that SHARC unit where I was constantly having video dropping at random times. Both from the Xbox Series X and from my PC. Now switching to this unit, yesterday with testing I had zero issues, so I'm just excited to be able to share that. If I end up having issues, I'll revise my post here and rating, but another reviewer who posted shared my EXACT same issue that I was having with SHARC (another unit/brand) and just like them, this unit appears to have fixed my issue. I am running Dolby Atmos with 7.1.4 (or 11.1 if you prefer) using an older 11.2 Denon receiver that does not support HDMI 2.1 Because of how these units are supposed to work, yes, I am getting full VRR, HDMI, Dolby Vison, etc from the TV using the PC and Xbox Series X (because well, they are directly connected to the Television). The key here is that the LG television connects to the OREI eArc in the "Output 1 eARC" input, and then output 2 is connected to the Denon. I was beyond relieved to see after a few hours of testing yesterday that there was no black screen, and then repopping back up when both using the Xbox Series X and the PC. If I don't update this review, then you know that it's been working flawlessly. TL;DR: If you have an older receiver with a new TV and want to have VRR with your PC or Xbox Series X, this is the unit you should buy. Edit 11/02/2023 - continues to work flawlessly.

This fits a specific need but requires a bit of tweaking to work properly. I'm writing this review so that maybe somebody can use it to find the right combination of settings to get it to work for them (a few of the settings seem backwards) I have an hdmi running from my playstation 5 to my tv (LG C9) to get the best picture possible and an hdmi from the to my old receiver (Harman-Kardon 1565). As I understand it, the problem was that the receiver doesn't support (e)arc, so the audio got downgraded. This guy plugs in between the TV and receiver to allow the receiver to output uncompressed audio. To get it to work: flip the dials to "Out 2" and "earc on" HDMI cable from HDMI IN 2 (ARC) on the TV into "out 1" on this device. Yes, the labeling on these seems backwards. HDMI cable from "out 2" on this to a non-arc input on the receiver. I set the audio out in the TV audio settings to HDMI ARC and Pass Through. At this point the disney+ app on the TV immediately started showing up as dolby digital +. However, the playstation was still only outputting in stereo. I had to set the sound in on HDMI 1 (where my playstation was plugged in) to bitstream to get my receiver to spit out Linear PCM signal. So Playstation output priority is PCM>HDMI input set to bitstream>HDMI output set to pcm.

I have a PC, a LG monitor w/o speaker, and a sound bar setup, PC-HDMI-OREI, then OREI-HDMI-Sound bar, I tried all settings and differenct cables and ports combination, this device will not work. Bought another eARC Audio Extractor, that one is more pricey but worked.

I have a PS5 as my main gaming machine as well as blu-ray player, I also have a 5.1 surround system (full towers and satellites and sub) with Denon X2300W receiver. I recently purchased an LG C3 and I am now running the PS5 straight into the TV whereas on my old TV that could only do 4k60, I just ran it into the receiver. This meant I could get all the higher definition audio mixes from blu-rays such as DTS-HD and DDTrueHD etc. Because I am now going into the TV and my receiver is ARC only, I could no longer pass these signals through so I was only getting core DTS and DD. Because I don't want to upgrade my receiver at the moment, this device solves my issue mostly. I can now run my TV to the receiver and pass through all the full mixes (this TV has DTS support so I am able to pass everything through it). It auto switches when necessary and acts as if I plugged the PS5 straight in. It also passes through CEC correctly meaning I can still control the volume with my TV remote. NOTE: If you use this, you need to plug it into an HDMI input on your receiver, NOT THE ARC INPUT. The minor caveat is there is no audio sync. In filmmaker mode with a blu ray on the PS5, the audio was happening before the picture so I had to add some delay in the TV settings. I do believe this has saved it to the filmmaker mode preset though so switching to game mode doesn't seem to be affected (this is good). The only other thing worth noting is that when skipping scenes on a blu ray, it takes a second or two for the sound to kick back. I believe when skipping, its not sending this data so it needs this time to feed that over. But once its playing, its fine. I'm only day 1 but so far, this solves my issue until I get a receiver with eARC. Will update this review if anything changes or if I find any other problems.

Firstly, a massive thanks to the anonymous reviewer from Canada who on 24/12/2021 said "then you plug the HDMI from your TV E-ARC output into the Orei E-ARC output. I know this counter intuitive since it's labelled output". That one liner saved me so much hassle. The instructions are not clear with that, and it's also labelled wrong. But now that I have this box, it works perfectly and I love it. My older Pioneer VSX-LX60 is an older but excellent amp - supports all the major codecs including DD Plus, DD TrueHD and DTS-HD. It's an amazing amp and I love it. Excellent sound, outputs 130wrms at 8ohm and 170wrms at 6 ohm. So you can understand my frustrations, as newer TVs need eARC to have decent quality audio, and my amp does not have this. A new amp that has the same audio quality, as well as earc, would be expensive. This amazing little box from OREI lets me extract the HD HDMI audio stream and pass it directly to my amp, retaining the full codec to the amp, allowing my Xbox and other devices to plug straight into the TV. I leave it off most of the time as I usually just watch the news or whatever without my amp on. But if I want to watch an action movie and make my neighbours hate me, this does the trick. Super happy and highly recommend for anyone who wants to get a bit more life out of their existing amp.

It saved me from buying a new sound bar! The setup: Nvidia Shield for TV and movies, TV: Samsung S90c, sound bar: Yamaha YSP 5600 sound projector. The Yamaha has amazing sound, support all surround formats and Atmos, but doesn't forward HDR and compromises the amazing S90c video quality. If I connect Shield -> TV -> Yamaha, I lose the Atmos, DTS etc sound, as the TV doesn't forward the higher audio formats neither thru eArc nor optical. If I do Nvidia -> Yamaha -> TV, I lose HDR, as the Yamaha doesn't forward HDR: both not good. This device splits the sound to the soundbar and the video to the TV and allows to use both great products' advantages - great audio with all the formats by the sound bar and fantastic looking HDR on the Samsung S90c! And it does it for very reasonable price. Great job, cheers!

Ho sdoppiato il segnale HDMI 4K 60Khz HDR in uscita dalla AppleTV - un'uscita collegata all'ingresso del proiettore, l'altra uscita all'input di questo Audio Extractor per ottenere l'eARC da collegare all'ingresso della soundbar. Trasmettendo un video con Dolby Atmos non si sente nessun audio dalla soundbar. So che il resto dell'equipaggiamento funziona bene, perche' se invece di prendere il segnale eARC dall'Audio Extractor lo prendo dall'uscita eARC del proiettore, l'audio si sente dalla soundbar. E confermo che lo sdoppiatore che uso e' uno sdoppiatore "vero" - il segnale un uscita si vede in contemporanea sulle due uscita.

Worked as expected with the exception of how it’s supposed to be connected for the function needed. From the TV’s HDMI-eARC port, connect to the port marked eARC out 1. From the port on the same side marked Audio out 2, connect to DAC. The pins on the opposite side set both pins to ON.