Wired Emergency Fire Alarm Station 9-28VDC Conventional Dual Action Manual Call Point

I put this on a piece of wood with the siren and LED strobe light just so I can pull it any time I like for the fun of it! It works real good wires up great I have it hooked to 4 18650 batteries with a charge on it to keep it charged it is just used at a toy, but if you were replacing one of yours with it, it works great easy install has two keys. Has Loop in connections for power and to hook up another to another unit else where. very easy pull time and easy to reset if you have the key. Worth buying and I would consider buying another one!

Used this to build a custom child's toy in a picture frame and wired to a $10 "KKMoon" siren. It works great and made a unique birthday present. I just wired to the switch, but there are some diodes and an LED in there for when this is used with a "real" system. My only complaint is the process for turning it off is sometimes awkward since the door hangs on the pull mechanism and you have to wiggle the key a little. But in a real scenario you probably would not be opening the door very often!

I used the UHPPOTE Wired Emergency Fire Alarm Station 9-28VDC Conventional Dual Action Manual Call Point and the UHPPOTE Wired 12/24VDC Sound and Light Fire Alarm Warning Strobe Siren Horn. The Fire Alarm Station is the component to switch the Fire Alarm Warning Strobe Siren Horn on and off. You have to get a 24 volt power supply (HitLights 24 Watt (2 Amp) LED Power Supply) and wire to connect the two devices together. It is a very simple circuit. One wire from the 24 v supply goes to the Fire Alarm Station's green terminal block, which is connected to a switch. The other side of the switch goes to the siren and strobe blue terminal block. Then the other side of the siren/strobe goes to the other wire of the 24 volt ps. Since the 24 volt ps has polarity it did not work the first time so i changed the - and + wires of the ps and it fired off. Very loud. Please pics on my review.

It can be used for any fire alarms, the strobe light won’t work. You would have an led light to see which pull station it was pulled at. Second you would have the switch which won’t automatically be switched by the pull station when you close it. Third, when a pull station is unlocked a person can come to the pull station, activate the fire alarm then rest the pull station.

My son has been fascinated with fire alarms ever since his first fire drill at school. To satisfy his curiosity I decided to build him his own fire alarm. I bought a cheap siren/strobe and this pull station and connected them with a couple op-amps and a relay in lieu of a $1500 control panel. So, the inside of this thing is a 4-way bridge rectifier. Even though there is a “+” and a “-“, it wouldn’t matter if you were to wire it backwards. The circuit is open normally, and basically passes through 2 diodes, a red LED and 1k resistor when pulled. I didn’t want to dim that LED (it’s visible externally when pulled) so I connected a 100 ohm resistor in series and amplified the voltage drop across that 100 ohms up to the point where it could switch a relay and drive the strobe. My son is happy, and this pull station worked well for me. Unfortunately I can’t tell you how it would work with a proper control panel.

My wife runs a home based preschool. As part of the county requirements we required a Fire pull station and Siren. We purchased the UHPPOTE Pull station and Siren. The first problem is that there are NO wiring diagrams included (or available online) and does not easily pair with the corresponding UHPPOTE siren. Here is what I learned so that you dont have to figure it out: The siren will work with any 12-24v DC power supply, but it is polarized meaning that the positive wire needs to go to the positive terminal. If it doesn't work, then switch the wires. If you're going from a power supply directly to the siren it will work flawlessly instantly. However, when you add the pull station in to the mix, it will not function correctly using any of the online instructions. The online instructions instruction tell you to take the negative wire and run it directly to the sirens negative terminal, while the positive wire is run into the pull station's positive terminal, then you run a wire from the pull stations negative terminal to the sirens positive terminal. The circuit is simple, logical, and easy to understand... and doesnt work. When you pull the alarm the siren partially lights up, but does not audibly work The problem is that there is a small circuit board in the pull station that lights an LED light. It's a simple circuit board with a few resistors and capacitors on it. The problem is that this circuit board cuts the amount of power sent to the siren to the point that the siren will not function correctly. I tried with power supplies ranging from 12-24v with both positive and negative tips and could not get it to work using the user diagrams online. This leads me to believe that the circuit board has recently changed since users on youtube clearly were able to make it work. The solution is easy - bypass the circuit board and use only the switch in the pull station. From your power supply connect the negative wire to the negative terminal on the siren. Then from your power supply connect the positive wire to the one of the switch wires (put them together in the screw down block), then take a wire from other switch wire out to positive terminal on the siren. The LED no longer works but the siren DOES work - and that is what is important here. See the photo in this review to see the wiring at the pull station

It takes a bit to connect it to a alarm but it works very well I prank my friends at school with it😂😂😂

I keep this in my backpack at my school and hospitals, whenever someone is annoying me I just take it out and hold it up against the wall when they’re not looking, when they look over again, I tell them they have to do what I want or I will pull the fire alarm, they freak out and do it. This thing is great love it 5/5.

I love the alarm but in the instructions it says once pulled activated will show in yellow it was never yellow and I was fuming but it’s good

Lo compré para un cuarto friki y la verdad es que está genial. Eso si, depende de la idea que tengáis, dado que es un interruptor de incendios real... necesitaréis quebraros más la cabeza xd

Great piece of kit. Much easier than pushing plastic.

Just as described.

Broke