Simran AC-750 Voltage Converter Transformer for Conversion Between 110 Volt / 220 Volt, 750 Watt Power Converter Worldwide Use

I exclusively use the Simran AC-750 voltage converter to power my HiFiMan Serenade Jr. R2R dac. I was using the smaller Simran AC-500 for awhile however that unit ran warmer than I liked, so I never felt comfortable leaving it on for extended periods of time. I purchased a LiteFuze LT-1000 thinking it would be an upgrade over my original Simran AC-500. The LiteFuze lasted 1 day in my system before I yanked it back out. It made my Serenade Jr. dac sounded irritating and harsh and I did not want to listen to it at all. That is when I decided to go back to Simran and step up to the larger AC-750. The AC-750 has an extra 250Watts of available power vs. the AC-500 and it seems to be the perfect match for my needs. The AC-750 is rated at 15x the power requirement of my Serenade Jr. so it cruises along with no strain and the metal case barely runs warm. Simran are the only voltage converters I have used that have not negatively affected the sound quality of my audio gear. I only wish it had an IEC inlet so I could power it with one of my high end TODN power cables. I think the retail price would increase if Simran knew these units were being used to power high end audio gear. If you have sensitive high performance electronics, I recommend Simran as your go-to choice for voltage converters. If you are only using appliances and power tools, then it probably does not matter which brand name you choose.

I got this so I could run a 220v Singer Featherweight sewing machine off a standard 110v outlet. My husband got me the Featherweight off of Craigslist, but didn't realize at the time that it has a 220v motor. Turns out it was brought over from New Zealand and the previous owner just got a new cord and plugged it into a 220v appliance outlet to use it. Not wanting to have to use it next to my washing machine all the time, I figured a voltage converter was the way to go. This one was the most affordable one I found, and it works great. Not too big or heavy to lug around either! It won't fit in the Featherweight case though (not that I expected it to). Do note that because of the frequency difference - 220v motors (of any kind) are designed for 50hz while the US runs on 60hz - will make the motor run slightly faster. A voltage converter can't change that, so you'll just have to deal with it. For a sewing machine it totally doesn't matter, but depending on what you want to use this for you should check into how this will affect your device.

I bought this to use with a Mathmos Lava Lamp in the US, that I bought from the UK. After reading how to operate this converter, it was very easy to setup and power on my lava lamp. I've been using it daily for a couple weeks, and have had no issues. Other reviews noted an electrical smell or loud operation, but I have not noticed that at all. For the record, if this starts making noise or putting out an odor, I'll stop using it. But for now, it's doing exactly what it's supposed to. I absolutely recommend this for use cases similar to mine.

I bought this because I live in Europe and have a lot of 110V stuff and 220V stuff I would like to be able to take back to the States one day. Though this is a great product, I am still trying to figure out what to use it for. You see, these transformers are an "on"/"off" appliances; which means they are either on (drawing 500 watts out of your wall) or they are off (a heavy paperweight). My flat screen LCD TV is 110V only, but I can run it and an XBox 360 on one 300W transformer... So you save money on the transformer purchase and the 300 watts (as opposed to 500 watts) coming out of your wall. I have a 2000W transformer too that I use to run my Dyson vacuum, but I only plug it in and turn it on when I am vacuuming. What I am getting at is just make sure you know how much power you need especially if you intend to use the transformer continually. If you just need to charge your 110V only electric razor for instance, you are only going to need a 100W transformer, as most razor chargers pull less than an amp of power. Most large electronics can run on 300W (a laser printer, maybe more). For a refrigerator or vaccuum, you are going to need a lot more juice: 1000-2000W. REMEMBER: voltage x amperage = wattage Most devices pull the same wattage regardless of voltage. Which means all those Europeans and Asians are using less amps, that's all.

Doesn't work. bought it with the thought of using. it sat in a closet for a couple of months. when attempted to use (first time) checked multiple times that the input is set on 220 V (as in my country), connected (first with a plug adapter) to live power socket, flipped the switch and nothing, no light no current nothing. Changed the plug (to have grounding) still nothing. Changed a fuse, nothing. Just a heavy ugly chunk of metal. Going to try and open it up next, hopefully not going to electrocute myself edit: thanks to a bad screw, I had to go find something to break it off with... it has been a while since I used my Dremel :) awesome first impression when taking apart... When opened, the first thing I noticed is the fuse's disconnected wire (circled with red in one of the attached photos) and copious amounts of glue (just indicates how "good" the build quality is)... so now I need to go find a soldering iron, which I'm not sure I have. still 1 star, NOT something I would recommend! edit 2 - "let there be light": found soldering iron, connected wire, there's light after flipping switch. connected a black and decker wireless screwdriver BDCS20 to charge. will update in a while if it is more than just a light Last update: It "works". It charged my flimsy screwdriver. I am not going to test it with anything big, nor am I going to check actual voltage. Me needing to open the BADLY BUILT thing and RE-WIRE any part in a completed product is more than enough to earn this negative stars.

Exelente producto lo que necesitaba .. gracias

We've left this on for over a month now without issues to test a firewall appliance and it just stayed luke warm and never got too hot to touch. There's a switch in the back where you can select the input voltage, either 110V or 220V. We've only used it in the US at 110V input and 220V output in the front. Please note that this is quite a bit heavier than travel transformers that are popular for temporary use. However, this transformer does not change the Hz from 50 to 60 or vice versa. In Europe, it's only 50 Hz, so this transformer can only take down the voltage to 110V but does not increase the cycles to 60 Hz. Likewise in the US, this transformer does not reduce the cycles to 50 Hz. This mainly affects devices that rely on timing such as clocks and the speed of motors. FYI...many devices like your cell phone/camera charger, laptops, and shavers are already 100-240V 50/60 Hz and usable worldwide with the appropriate $2 adapter plug. Just carefully check the label.

I purchased two of these from another company 10/16/2016 and one died on 6/24/2018, so it lasted less than 2 years. The unit was temperamental right from the start. After a month I noticed that I'd get 220V for a few hours and then at some point it would start supplying only 110V. Switching it off and then back on would reset it 8 out of 10 times and I'd get 220V again. I had some concerns about this causing issues for the devices plugged into it. The reason I did not send it back was this clause included (Not by an Amazon seller): " Products which are improperly packaged and do not include manufacturers box will be refused. The merchandise must come back packed in the outer brown box it was shipped with the shipping label on it". I had a faulty unit but his only became apparent a month later and the crappy boxes were thrown away by then. I also bought one of these from Amazon on 12/6/2017 without automatic voltage selection. It arrived with a blown fuse, so it was DoA (Dead on Arrival). Considering the issues I had with my existing unit, and the fact that Amazon is a much safer bet when it comes to returning items, I returned it. This made it clear that Simran does not do great (or any?) quality control. I continued with the original unit until it died. I opened it up to see if it could be saved and found the following: The automatic voltage selection board seems to be the culprit. The board has some component specifications on it which were not followed. Marking on board -> Component Cap : 1000uF 50V -> 1000uF 35V Resistor : 5W 10 Ohm -> 1W 10 Ohm These burned out and caused additional damage to other components. Additional components damaged was a C1008 transistor, an N4007 diode and the relay on the automatic voltage selection board Simran used lower spec parts causing early failure. The rest of the unit seems well built and should really give you lifelong service, had it not been for the compromises made on this one board. My other unit has not given me a moment's issues, so the item you receive might be hit or miss. My advice: This product is good value for money, BUT get this from Amazon if you need it, and not from a company with questionable return policies. You may never look back or you may have to return it if you notice strange behavior.