Supco Washer Water Pump, Whirlpool Replacement Part No. LP116

My whirlpool washer started leaking at the bottom. The leak went from a trickle and one towel to a veritable stream over a few months, putting 12 towels down just to do a few loads of laundry. I went online to see about what was wrong and how much it would be to fix. As it turns out this part, that I paid $15, was the answer. My teenage son and I got the old one off with a hacksaw; that was the worst part. In hindsight, a little dish washing solvent to ease the new one on would have been a great idea. As it is, we used a rubber mallet because the motor shaft this "slips" onto was rusted and it was a very, very snug fit. Point is, this works perfectly, and we saved ourselves the service call and a more costly part from a dealer. This is the way to go if you are so inclined to tackle the problem and save yourself the money. My teenager votes for a repairman next time--but I hope that won't be for an extremely long time.

I have an old Whirlpool top load washing machine that was leaking water at the base. Even though it is old, it does a great job and it uses more water rather than less, which I prefer. So after some poking around on the web and on youtube, I took a chance and purchased this part in the hope it would fix the leaking issue. I began the repair by unplugging the machine. After struggling a bit, I managed to get the cover off the washing machine. I removed the old part and put in a new one, taking care to mop up any water that spilled on the floor. The repair worked! No water leaking. This is well after a year of it being installed. This random part did the trick for me and I am able to get a few more years out of an old washing machine! The environment and me are thrilled!!!

Tub would not drain. Bought this and problem is fixed. Easy install with directions on YouTube. It’s a lot cheaper than a service call or new washer

UPDATE 12 YEARS LATER It seems there are a lot of versions for this pump at various prices. This was as cheap or cheaper then most. It appeared to be close to the same 'look' as the old one on my Sears washer. The installation was a 'snap', -ACTUALLY a snap. After removing the two hoses unsnap the two retaining spring clips, remove the old pump, install the new, and snap the clips back on. One CAVEAT! *** The pump is turning all the time the washer is running and needs to be -wet-. So after installing the new pump fill the washer and then drain it one time to WET seals. Otherwise it -may- leak the first wash - also this should help prevent any heating up or possible melting of the input shaft. Because the DRAIN HOSES are so old they were not as soft as new ones, when I reinstalled them with the spring loaded bands one of them did not seal very well. I took it back off and applied some Vaseline to the inside of the hose, then wiped off the excess. Then when I reinstalled the clamps I made sure the clamps went into EXACTLY the same 'indents' where they originally were. My Sears Kenmore washer is 34 years old. This is my second pump replacement. The first replacement (this same brand) lasted 12 years. I believe that should qualify as a good pump. I can definitely recommend this replacement pump.

Product is exactly what is described and what it needs to be to replace the OEM part, and CHEAP - OEM replacement is $43 from Sears. I had an issue that was one of those "learn from experience" things. As it turned out there was a tremendous amount of build up on the motor stem that this connects to. Unfortunately, I was unaware that this build up was there and the new part cracked when I put it on. At the price this seller offers them for however, I chalked it up to a learning experience and ordered another one. The only inconvenience was waiting for another replacement, but this is not their fault, obviously. I just wish there was something provided that informed the buyer that this may happen and to check for it before installing. I was able to band-aid it with silicone until the new one came, so it all worked out. One other thing, I wish this part came with the clips that hold it on, mine aren't in the best shape and I am having a hard time finding replacements. Overall, part was perfect, everything else here was a side note.

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The product itself is good. My original was damaged by a short wire that made it's way out of clothing during the wash cycle and through one of the holes in the tub to the drain hose and settled at the inlet of the water pump where over a few months the end of the wire rubbed a hole in the original causing a small hole to form and leak. When I went to remove the original, it was extremely hard to remove due to rust on the pump end of the electric motor's shaft. This rust on the shaft fused to the orig. water pump. After I removed, scraped rust off shaft and put on replacement. However, another problem cropped up unexpectantly; after agitation, the washer attempts to go into spin but with a full load of clothes and the tub full of water; the electric motor could not spin and hummed. When I went to diagnose and remove new pump, it was again difficult to get off. This time I took the electric motor out and used a wire brush on my bench grinder to clean up the rust. This solved the problem of hard to remove water pump. But the machine still would not spin. Believe problem is either neutral pak (no visible damage) so possibly worn out and not allowing transmission to go initially into neutral for drain to occur. Or the clutch isn't disengaging the brake shoes or the brake shoes themselves are the problem. Again no visible damage. At the Sears website, could not order brake shoes separate from tube assy. Tube assy would have cost over $130.00. Luckily I found the Whirlpool equivalent model number to my Kenmore series 80 washer. At an online appliance parts site using the Whirlpool equivalent model number determined the part number to the tube assy was the same and the shoes were available to order separately. I will know more when I replace ordered parts in determining which of the three are the cause.