- 4K 60Hz HDMI Audio Extractor Converter SPDIF + 3.5MM Output Supports HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, 1080P@120Hz, 1080P@144Hz, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR10 by J-Tech Digital [JTD18G-H5CH]

Update 2: Okay, so this review chronicles my learning what this thing/EDID actually does 🤦‍♂️ There’s no “downmix” happening in this machine - It simply extracts the audio and either tells the source what it requires or doesn’t. Judging simply on this functionality, I’m increasing my rating to five stars. It’s solid, inexpensive, and does its job with no harm to the data that I can tell. I think their “literature” could be clearer (for beginners anyway), but hey. The tradeoff with this component is though I avoid resampling by my television, I now rely on my Roku Ultra for PCM. Here’s the thing…There’s something about how Roku handles 5.1 that (at least for me) it assigns music to the right channel. The clearest example I have of this is the title-sequence of “Welcome To Derry” (via Max). However, if I stream it on Plex (which is already mixed down to stereo), the title music is perfectly centered to “the stage.” So I’m now shopping for a streamer upgrade, but I digress. My point is, in my experience, using this extractor puts more responsibility on your source. I don’t think that applies to everyone, but keep it in mind ✌️ Update 1: I’ve been experimenting, and came back to say… 1) I don't hear a strong difference, but I recommend setting the Roku Ultra to stereo and the J-Tech [JT] to passthrough/TV (photo taken with Roku in passthrough and JT in 2CH). 2) WiiM Pro currently can’t read DTS etc, so leaving both preceding components in passthrough got me no sound (but oddly displayed 24/192 on my DAC… weird) 3) I’d like to clarify the JT doesn’t change the Roku menu by default - It depends what order you adjust the EDID. All in all, decent product, but not sure it isn’t overkill in my scenario. Good build, no harm to video or audio, easy to use, and kind customer service that patiently answered my questions. 7/24/24 Original Review: Well, I’m glad I at least got the TV out of the audio path, but let’s rewind… I had made such strides with my system’s music handling, I wanted to bring the TV experience up to speed. That’s not to say the sound quality bad or that I was having connectivity issues, but I was aware (or at least under the impression) that the TV was resampling the audio output. I was also tired of 5.1 streams (which, up until fairly recently was standard) burying dialogue in my 2.1 system. For example, being able to hear a difference between surround and stereo settings on Netflix, I assumed the mix-down was likely happening in the TV and was as mediocre as its analog conversion. That said, I was unaware of (and would eventually learn) four important things: 1) The Roku Ultra’s audio can be set to “Uncompressed Stereo” (I am still kicking myself for not checking the source first). 2) Setting the Roku to Stereo changes your menu options *in the streaming services*, and the presence of the Extractor changes the Roku menu i.e I cannot be certain the mix-down sounds any better outside the TV’s path 3) You are not going to find audio above 24/48 being streamed by major services like Netflix, Max, Hulu etc. If you want 24/192, you’re going to need BlueRay discs or RIP’s. 4) I believe the Roku is doing its own resampling to match the common 24/48 stream - Higher bitrates on a Plex server will not come through. So, I’m not sure I did much 😅 It seems almost everything I suspected of the TV was happening in the Roku (or is beyond my control to begin with). That said, I can tell you the device feels solid, it was easy to set up, and has not diminished the audible experience. I’ve had success upgrading power supplies (and the one provided seems a little “dinky”) but I see no point in experimenting with that given the circumstances. The manual seemed to be for an older model, and was the bare minimum of info, but I was able to find a slightly better version online. To give the full picture, the path is Roku Ultra > HDMI to Extractor > optical to a WiiM Pro > optical to DAC (Denafrips) > Preamp. The next move will likely/eventually be switching the source to a NVIDIA Shield TV Pro and see if that opens up the experience at all. I admittedly have only used the 2.0 setting up to this point, and need to try different “orientations” with the Roku. I’ll come back if I learn anything more ✌️

Did the job and with no loss in sound quality!

I have been converting my home from standard TV to 1080P high resolution. The video source is in the garage (Roku), where the satellite and network feeds come in. All TV's (five different locations in the house) get the same video in my situation. Because there are spare Cat5e cables and coax cables in the walls of the house, finding J-Tech's HDMI extender products was a godsend. I have used them for HDMI - over - Cat5e (Cat6 and Cat7 would work too but my house is older than that) and for HDMI - over - Coax. Both work flawlessly. One of my endpoints is a projector that blocked the HDMI's audio (projector's fault), so I tried the J-Tech audio splitter prior to the projector and again, that works flawlessly. Three J-Tech product types, one happy customer, extremely easy setup all around. Here's another thing though: I had a few technical questions. J-Tech's customer support was awesome - they answered all my questions completely, clearly, and in less than a day. Thank you Jewel! My one suggestion to J-Tech is to upgrade their product manual to address questions like mine (specifically: can you swap transmitters or receivers? yes. Can you drive multiple receivers from a single transmitter? no. How should I interpret the status LEDS on the receivers and transmitters? transmitter: red is good; receiver: green is good) And whatever else comes to their minds to make the user's life easier. I think some of J-Tech's devices can work with 4k video, although as an engineer I have always been dubious that 4k is much more than a marketing ploy compared to 1080p; the human eye is not that discerning except under closely and continuously monitored conditions.

I had hoped to use this to send audio from my PC's HDMI cables to an optical connection on my speakers, but no dice. Windows never recognizes the cable as having audio "plugged in" I currently have an HDMI cable coming from my PC's NVidia 1070 TI video card to the HDMI IN on the JTD18G-H5CH. Then another HDMI cable going from the JTD18G-H5CH HDMI OUT to my Dell 2407WFP monitor. The video works fine, at all resolutions I tested, including 1920x1200, 1920x1080, and 1280x720. The HDMI cables are all high speed HDMI. I have an optical cable plugged in the JTD18G-H5CH optical out and into the control unit of my Logitech Z-5500. Alternatively, I also tried connecting the HDMI cable to my Asus PA248 monitor, but it changed nothing. I've tried all 3 switches on the JTD18G-H5CH: 5CH, 2CH, and TV. It makes no difference. I've tried 2 different optical cables and 3 different HDMI cables, all verified working in other applications. After each configuration change, I fully shut down the machine. In Windows, when I go to enable the sound from the HDMI port that is connected to the JTD18G-H5CH, it always shows not plugged in. It doesn't matter the resolution, which monitor I'm using, or what the switch is set to. The audio for the HDMI port cannot be enabled. The link light is not always on, and when it does come on, it seems to be at random. The video is being passed through OK, but changing resolution or shutdown/start of the source PC doesn't seem to make a difference. I've opened a support ticket with J-Tech and will try swapping out the unit. Will update the review based on the outcome. ==UPDATE== I tried the JTD18G-H5CH on two different PCs. Neither recognized it. I returned it and got another from Amazon. The new one is recognized by both PCs, and audio tests are successful over the optical cable. However it is only recognized as stereo, not 5.1, no matter what position the switch is in. Reached back out to J-Tech support.

Worked out great! Exactly what I needed at a very reasonable price.

When it works, it works well. No perceptible added latency, no audio issues, outputs are clean. It worked great when using an HDMI to HDMIc cable input (which is probably what most people are using it for). Unfortunately, my setup (laptop - extractor - projector/soundbar) requires a USB-C to HDMI cable for optimal low-latency performance, which is a necessity for me. Using this extractor with the USB-C cable resulted in a very unstable signal, which was constantly resetting and dropping, and was unusable. If you need to use an atypical/adapter cable as an input, this may not be the most stable option. I tested all the cables independently (all were fine), and replaced this unit with a similar one from another brand (solved the problem). When it works it's great, so if you're going HDMI to HDMI, this is a good bet. Took one star off for compatibility issue.

I recently upgraded my PC monitor from 1920x1200 to 4K. I use an Amazon FireTV cube to view programs on the monitor, with an HDMI audio splitter to separate a digital audio signal in order to hear the audio on the programs. I had been using an Amazon Basics splitter but it only worked up to 1920x1080, fine for the old monitor but not for the new one. I found this J-Tech Digital splitter with the right specs and good reviews. Swapping the old splitter out, installing this new one immediately allowed me to view a 4K program from the FireTV cube. The audio for the program I viewed seemed to be in mono (L channel = R channel always) -- I assume that was the program not the splitter. I will update review if I find out different.

This device works great with my husband's Widex 2 hearing aids! He was able to link the blue tooth capability with an app on his Iphone which allows him to have the sound go directly into his ears eliminating the need to crank up the actual TV volume which would hurt my ears. He reports hearing little sounds which he missed out on prior to acquiring this device such as crickets, leaves crackling, and other features in movies.

Fonctionne super bien. Belle qualité d'image, belles couleurs et les contrastes.J'ai utilisé cette appareil avec une source HDMI/TV avec le son et l'image, mais mon récepteur/ampli vieux de 12 ans env. est avec le son et l'image séparé. Cette appareil a bien pris la réception du son et l'image pour envoyé le tout séparément dans mon récepteur/ampli.J'ai été conseillé d'utilisé un convertisseur/extracteur car mon cinéma maison est avec un projecteur sur écran.Car avant d'utiliser cette appareil je n'avais que l'image mais pas de son. Maintenant tout fonctionne à merveille.J'ai attendu 2 mois avant démettre mon commentaire car avec l' achat d'un autre fournisseur après 2 semaines d'utilisation tout a arrêté de fonctionner.Mais avec l'appareil de J-TECH DIGITAL tout va pour le mieux. Je recommande...

Plugged it all in and it worked right away. I wanted to split audio from my AppleTV to my older AV amp that only has optical inputs. Works well.

Works great with my Xbox Series X playing games at 4K 60Hz HDR and 5.1 speaker setup

I purchased this from Amazon UK and it arrived the next day. However I was very disappointed to find that the power adaptor was not fitted with the 3pin UK type wall plug. It had a US/Canadian fitting. This made it useless to me so I returned it. Such a shame as it seemed to suit my needs and I was looking forward to trying it.

Got this to connect my PS5 to my AV receiver that has an optical audio connection. It works great, easy to set up, compatible at 4K 60fps with HDR. Has a solid metallic build quality. Definitely worth it!