Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush | 500 ml | Oil additive | SKU: 2037

My 06 Altima (185k miles) had been burning massive amounts of oil (like 4 quarts every 800 miles) due to a leaking PCV valve hose that took forever for me to narrow down (months). So after getting that under control I figured I needed to decontaminate the poor engine. When using this I idled my car to operating temp (about 8 minutes). Poured the bottle in, idled it for another 15 minutes. Drained the oil (black and thick). Put the plug back in, poured about 2.5qts of new oil in. Idled it for 10 minutes. Drained that (black but much thinner). Took the old filter off. Let both areas drain for 10 minutes. Put the plug back in, put the new filter on and filled with the 4.6qts of new oil my car calls for. Ran for a few minutes (like 2 with a few revs) and then let sit for 10 mins before checking the level. When I checked my dipstick it was so clean I thought I had a leak because I couldn't see it on any of the crosshatch. I ended up having to go by touch to get the reading. This stuff is amazing.

Used a whole can in my 2009 Civic 1.8L with 150k miles. I can honestly say, this helped remove a lot of sludge out of the engine. The oil came out with a water-like texture and super dark! Before taking out the oil filter, I added new lower cost oil to the engine and let the engine run for about 5 minutes to get that extra flush! You can definitely see all the extra sludge in the new oil! Drained and refilled with new oil and filter. The engine definitely sounded quieter and smoother than before! If you value your car, I would definitely recommend doing this flush on your higher mileage cars every 50k miles or so! Definitely recommend this LiquiMoly product!

Update - 3rd oil change/flush. Engine oil draining from engine is waaaay cleaner than my first flush. Probably won't need to do a 4th time for several changes. I added Ceratec at this change and am amazed how much better the engine performs since my initial flush. Less clatter and very smooth idle. (Jeep 4.0 I6) Update- 2nd change and used the flush again. About 7000 miles from first use. The oil was cleaner and less "gunky" as first time but oil was definitely dirtier than normal. Right away noticed off idle throttle response improved. Then on a drive I take regularly with a mountain pass and long downhill I noticed that even tho the jeep downshifted out of OD it took much less throttle to hold 65 up a long grade. On the downhill normally I would see 50-60 mpg max on the digital readout. This time. It went to 99 which to me indicates more vaccum below the throttle plate. My guess is the rings freed up a bit more than the first flush and highway mileage is up to 23+ where I would get 21 before. Nice! Used in 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 140k miles and a ticking lifter (common in the 4.0 - 6 cylinder...). Definitely cleaned sludge (oil filter very heavy!) and oil was dark when draining. Idles smoother, oil stays cleaner longer, slight oil pressure increase and runs cooler. The lifter still ticks but probably a cam lobe issue. Will use it after 7500 miles or 1 year. Will report back after next change.

I watched several videos by professionals who used this. Follow instructions. Make sure the engine is warm before you put it in. Make sure you have everything you need. The biggest tip I got that was repeatedly emphasized by the pros was to buy a “cheap” oil in addition to the new oil. After you run the flush drain the oil and flush. Put the cheap oil in and “rinse” the inside of the engine with the cheap oil. Then drain again. Replace the oil and filter with your good stuff. I followed these instructions or suggestions and…. I sat in the truck while the flush was running. It’s a 13 year old truck with 150,000 miles. It was running strong but burning oil and kind of loud. Sounded like it was growling. There were some ticking type noises that made me nervous. As I sat in the truck and let the flush cycle through the engine at idle I could literally hear the flush working. Very slowly it was like someone gave the engine a Xanax and you could hear it getting quieter and calming down. I drained, rinsed with cheap oil only letting the cheap oil run through at idle for another 15 minutes then drained again. The oil flush was clearly important. It didn’t come out as black as the first drain but it looked like old nasty oil. The truck is no longer burning oil. My gas mileage has increased significantly and it is running so quiet and smooth it’s unbelievable. I used a little less of the liquid Molly flush than it called for regarding the flush to oil ratio. I didn’t want to do something too intense to the inside of the engine. But the results were remarkable. Just as advertised after following the instructions. I also added the liquid Molly oil additive to the final oil change to ‘lube’ the inside of the engine. I plan to do another flush in about 10,000 miles. All that to say, yes, you won’t be disappointed as long as you follow instructions and a few tips and tricks. My truck is almost running like a brand new truck and again it’s an old and tired truck. I will use this as part of a high mileage maintenance and perform the flush every 50,000 miles or so. I feel confident it will extend the life of my engine based on the results

This is a good product and it does what it says but it did not immediately solve my noisy valve problem. My vehicle has older Buick V8 that had been sitting for years with very little run time and it took a lot of hours of hydraulic lifter flushing at idle with various products including Liqui Moly Pro-Line, as well as an AFT/oil mixture to reduce the valve noise. It’s a lot better now, but not perfect.

Just did an oil change in my E60 525i last week. I figured at 129k miles, it was due for a flushing, especially when I pulled the cap and noticed a lot of varnish and darkness. I know the Vanos solenoids like to load up as well and cause all sorts of faults, so to me it was worth the time and such to flush the engine out. Dumped the bottle in, let it run for 10 minutes like the instructions state, then drained and proceeded. Man, it cleared all that varnish out, well, from what I could see. I should have taken pix of before and after, but it literally went from a burnt dingy look in the components you can see through the cap to nice, clean base metal colored hardware. The cap was like a new cap as well. When I pulled the plug, it was obvious it had flushed out some varnish as the oil looked like it hadn't been changed in 50k miles! The engine also now runs a ton smoother and the slight pulse in my idle went away. I run Liqui Moly additives and trans fluids in this car and none has ever given me a spec of trouble. Smooth shifts, smooth idle and reliability. Highly recommend this product for periodic maintenance.

I have used them all. Even kerosene and diesel fuel in my day. I looked at some reviews online and figured for 14 bucks? I'll take the chance. I have a 97 4Runner with a 3.4 6 banger with 155k on it in the harsh Midwest. It went through some time where it was used as a kid truck, a super snow day truck, and short runs around town. So I am ashamed to admit, it got neglected since not everyone who drove it did not do what they were supposed to. Like change the oil? So I found this thing went 6,200 miles on regular oil. No synthetic. And the last time it was changed was at a oil change place where they tend to use diluted oils and filters that that would leak in a coffee pot. So it was ugly. Took a flashlight and saw ugly oil buildup. valve covers, oil pan where the pressure sensor leaked, it was rough. It idled hot for 15 mins and I shut it down for the night. Went out after noon and went to change it. Blacker than a politicians heart. And thick gooey oil drained out in the pan. Filter was about shot. Swapped the filter with an extended life filter, added some high mileage synthetic and cranked it back up. Got to temp- and shut it down. No knocks, ticks, lifter noise, I did the intake and valve cover gaskets and when I looked at the valve train it wasn't pristine...but it was clean! I was amazed what this stuff took out. I will run it another 2K and change again and do another flush with the new oil and see what it cleaned up again. Honda CRV 225K on it. Did the same as the 4runner. Flushed clean and ran it through. Quieted the engine, runs cooler and an absolute value for the money. But for now? Very impressed.

Had a check engine light come on for cam shaft position. Did some research online about the specific code and found that I could be due to sludge in the engine. Added this and ran for about 30 minutes and then had the oil changed. The light never came back on and the engine is running smooth and quiet. Will definitely use again.

Nice product for diesel engine flush

¿Es parte indispensable en un cambio de aceite? No, la verdad no. Sin embargo, la fórmula cumple perfectamente con su función si sigues las instrucciones al pie de la letra. Si no sabes cómo usarlo, búscalo en YouTube (preferentemente en los canales oficiales de la marca). Entonces ¿para qué usarlo si no es indispensable?, bueno la respuesta es sencilla: para sacarle el mejor provecho al aceite nuevo habiendo limpiado por dentro el motor. Si quieres que el aceite nuevo realmente cumpla con su propósito (lubricante, detergente, etc., etc., etc.,) lo ideal es que "trabaje" en un máquina lo más limpia posible. Así que, en conclusión, es un excelente "pre" para que el motor esté en mejores condiciones para recibir el aceite nuevo.

It’s perfect it can make the engine brand new from inside I used it with BG 44k

This works great. I used it after I had just done an engine flush and oil change. Turned my fresh oil black! My truck has had the engine changed, has under 130,000 on the engine, and has been regularly serviçed with full synthetic oil etc. Not an old negleted beater. Check engine light is on from an oxygen sensor, because I ran seafoam through it when I did the first oil change. Code is cleared now, has not returned. Just before my last oil change in my 2008 Sierra 1500, with the 4.8, I added some transmission fluid to my oil (old school teick to clean engine out, I have been doing this for years) idled about 5 km, then added some store bought engine flush. Idled for 5 minutes, then drained all the oil. I jacked up my truck and let it fully drain for about 20 minutes until no oil was left. It came out black, and my oil filter was heavy I then filled it with cheap conventional oil and put a new filter on. My oil pressure went up slightly, and the lifter tick went away. I drove it for 2 days, putting less then 200 km on the new oil. It was still clean, and as clear as the day I put it in. I added this engine flush, and idled it for 15 minutes. The oil pressure went down slightly, and the lifter tick returned. This stuff cleaned a ton of crap out of my already flushed engine! Oil filter was again heavy, even after draining the oil from it for 10 minutes (not as heavy as the first one, but still, heavier then a used filter normally is) Drained all oil out again, refilled and put a new filter on. As you can see from the pictures, the oil came out black again. The oil pressure went up higher then it ever has been since I owned the truck, and the lifter tick is completely gone. Definitely reccomend this. Also, if you are at a point of doing an engine flush, I would probably do what I did and use this as a second flush, as I believe it works better then cheap store brand. How could it get the oil that black if the store brand stuff did it's job? I really did not expect my oil to be as dirty as it was

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