Heat-Activated Fabric Dressing | 1 Pint

I used Barbour wax initially and then tried this Otter..I like both and in my opinion they differ. I did a light weight 100% cotton field jacket with the Barbour and it turned out great, very supple and soft unlike a Filson tin clothe or similar but I probably could have coated it again to get more of a stiff finish..I did another 511 tactical heavy shirt with the Otter and the diff is it goes on thicker brushed and has a lot more of a thick coating before the heat process to impreganate it into the clothe..Another great way to apply it is heat the wax by sticking the heat gun on high right into the top of the can and when it melts a little stick the brush in and paint it on the garment spreading it as you use the heat gun and brush as you wipe off the excess before it dries which is much quicker than putting it all on the stove to melt it completely before applying..When I was finished both gave me excellent results with the Otter somewhat stiffer similar to a Filson finish..I find using a old iron to get this Into the clothe is best on easy to iron clothe then clean up any other spots with a heat gun or hair dryer just don't over do it or it will travel right thorough the clothe to the surface its on..This is a excellent procedure for both..My results were great and it was my first time. I think I'll stick with the Otter for price as you get twice the amount for the same cost and you will use the same per garment. Although the Barbour is easier and melts quicker and is more supple as you will have a hard time to know if the garment is Borboured by its looks and feel as it is soft but waterproof not stiff like Otter..Both are good though and if you don't screw it up you should be satisfied with either, but understand there is a reason you pay the $400 + cost for waxed jackets because they are a choir to do and you are paying for it so save and spend a coupler hours to save a couple hundred and do it to whatever you need to do it to..Up date; the garment I did is super water proof but it really smells and it smells everything else up in the storage. When I hang it in the garage, as soon as I enter it I can smell it a mile away..From now on only hunting clothes..

After melting 3 cans and trying to paint and scrape and rub this wax on to a canvas tent roof, I started to question my life choices that brought be to this point in my life. Then I noticed a missed spot and took a chunk of hard wax from an empty can and rubbed it on. It worked great. That’s when I came up with the idea to just make my own “rub” bars from the cans. I heated up 4 cans and poured them in to 3oz soap molds making 24 bars. On a 55°f day in direct sun the fabric is hot enough to melt and set the wax, just with less mess and I’m also able to more precisely apply it to needed locations. I like this wax and it definitely waterproofed the fabric. The smell is also pleasant and not harsh whatsoever. However you choose to apply this wax, I highly recommend it!

Definitely worth the investment. Used this product to wax an older barn/field coat (LL Bean) for the first time and the process while tedious came out really well. Plan on two coats if doing this for the first time. The first coat used about 3/4 of the can and the second finished it off. I used a 1 inch plastic drywall spatula to apply and scrape off any excess. At first I used the wife's hair dryer but then switched to a heat gun which worked far better to melt the wax and dry the coat. The product works well, applies evenly and smoothly, and covers nicely with minimal smell.

Works great for clothes you’re wearing for work. Leaves them a little stiff at first but the canvas is waterproof, dirt proof, and mud proof. Great for duck blind bags

OMG, this stuff is fabulous and its not made out of Otters...SCORE!! LOL. Seriously, this is a wonderful product and I recommend the pint

I had been eyeballing some Filson work pants, the oil tin cloth pants, bit the price tag of 200 made me think there has to be another way. Rugged pair of canvas carhart pants and this fabric wax (along with some patience), and I’m very happy with the outcome. Not sure if the pic does it justice, but after a sloppy application, really working the melted wax in to the fabric using a wood tool, I think these are bullet proof. My new go to weekend warrior pants. And still have enough left over for a jacket and maybe a future application to these pants in a few years. Super happy, but also interested in the fabric wax bar for even more heavy duty garments. But after going through this process with the melted wax, I am sure you would need a solid heat gun or hair dryer to get the wax in deep and evenly applied. Doing a large garment with a wax bar seems intimidating, given the work I put in with this one. But man you can create some really durable long lasting water prof garments. I’ve done some hats, makes them heavy and almost leather like, really like how this ends up in canvas cloth.

Very messy to apply. Do not recommend. Unless I'm the only person that doesn't know the correct process to do it.

Worked great to waterproof a cloak

When warmed up, it’s easy to apply on fabric. 1 small tub can last about 1 extra large jacket.

Great wax; but optimally with the instructions with melting I'd recommend putting a F for fahrenheit beside the 200° that's indicated for boiling the wax to melt. If I missed it elsewhere on the can then I'll be damned, my point on this though as much as this temperature may be obvious to the manufacturers and myself; some people will not question this and may throw their burner on 200°C, the difference between 200°F and 200°C being enough to melt a wax and cause a wax to combust, 4.4°C higher over 200°C and it will hit its flash point which will begin to ignite and vaporize the wax turning it into a flammable vapour and gas, the oil in the wax only adding to how flammable this could be. Otherwise I think the product is fantastic; I have no qualms with it but I definitely do think the temperature should be clarified on the instructions in the off-chance that someone somehow does think that heating a wax to 200°C is a good idea. Not sure if a case where this happened could cause the company to be held legally liable but I'm hoping that they read this and change the instructions for their sake. I'm not sure how many people use this product but having to deal with a legal case like that because of a single letter that could be printed on the instructions would be absolute hell to deal with and it'd suck to see a company that provides a niche product like this to have to go through that. Acquiring waxes that are good for textiles and fabrics isn't the easiest thing to come across due to the load of impurities that can come with the substance; from my entire time using this with the entire can, doing cold application as well as melting the entire thing into moulds that I can use, the wax is incredibly pure and I've seen absolutely zero impurities or debris in it. It's an extremely solid product and I'd gladly purchase their waxes again for doing my primary layers for canvas and other similar materials.

AMAZING WAX JACKET IS WATERPROOF

Excellent product, did a great job on my jacket

Its difficult to apply. But I also live in a winter city, so I think it dried a bit faster than could be rubbed in. With some elbow grease, its a great product and worked well on my son's overalls.