Logan Pro-framing F300-1 Studio Joiner

This is the first time I ever used a tool like this and when I simply followed the instructions it worked, but only a couple of issues that aren't too big of a deal, but could be implemented as improvements; 1. The "Molding Spacer" can be improved as all it does is elevate the Corner Clamp from the Base by 3/4" so the moldings aren't touching the Base. So, when you finally push the first V-nail into it, the miter edges of the molding will bend downward because there is no support underneath. A small rubber pad needs to be used to give that support. 2. There are only 2 "Levelers" included, but for large frames, a third "Leveler" needs to be used to prevent any bending at the far opposite corner. I completed a picture frame that was 64" x 42" where I had a make-shift leveler for the far end and I didn't use the Spacer, just a piece of rubber to not only protect the molding but to give it support for the V-nails. Once I did that, everything worked perfectly! When finished, this large frame was a perfect rectangle and solid!! This tool is definitely worth the money, but could use a couple of improvements however, it doesn't prevent you from getting perfectly squared frames.

I read a lot of reviews on this product that are negative. I experienced the same problems with this joiner as many of the others who are complaining. However, with practice, I find this to be a good product. Don't expect perfect corners immediately - it takes practice. Most of the complaints are that as you are pressing the V-nails into the back, the front is spreading, leaving a gap. The reason is lack of support under the frame, and there is a simple solution for this. Using two pieces of the same scrap frame material, make a simple corner joint, BUT MAKE IT BACKWARDS. The result is that you have a corner with a mirror image contour that you can put under your frame corner to provide overall support no matter where you put the V-nail. Using this method, I rarely use Logan's support bracket that comes with the joiner. Also, watch the calibration of your saw - you MUST check the 90 degree vertical and 45 degree miter angle of the saw with a carpenters square. It has to be perfect; these corners are super-sensitive to very small angle errors. Otherwise you will get joints with gaps no matter how good you are at using the joiner. Don't depend on your saw to remain calibrated forever. With use, it drifts. Check it often. I check mine every 50-75 cuts. And finally, use Logan's suggestion of coloring the edges of the joints with wood stain. It hides minor joint errors. I use a stain pen - it's easy to use and doesn't require opening a can of stain every time I want to join a corner. I've been using the joiner for roughly 6 months - I have no problems getting good joints.

I sell artwork at festivals. I quickly realized that buying frames was killing my profit margin and since I rarely venture above 20"x16" I figured i'd pick up this smaller Molding Joiner. What you gain in profit, might cost you in time, but I can say that after i'd built my first few frames it became easier and easier. I've found that occasionally i'll have small gaps in my corners that need to be patched with wood filler before staining, but overall i've gotten great results from this Joiner. Frames that used to cost me $50 and now down to $10 - $15. When constructing larger frames things can get awkward as you have to use the small blocks to hold up the far reaching corners you've already joined as you try to keep the joint you're currently working on in the right spot to be joined. The Joiner has already paid for itself a few times over, so its difficult not to recommend. If you're tired of frames eating away at your profit margin, than this is a great entry level tool.

This is a cleverly designed, well built tool that acts as both a corner clamp and V-nailer. If you follow the simple instructions carefully you'll see good results with this device. So far I've only had to clamp and fasten home-built frames made with rectangular stock, so shimming the pieces prior to nailing has not been necessary (it seems like that's where most folks have trouble). However, adjustable shims are provided for use with irregular stock. In fact, everything except glue was in the box, including two bags of soft-wood V-nails. This thing exceeded my expectations, and I recommend it.

The unit presses v nails in quite well, but care is needed or you will have small gaps in your joints. I found that the best way to use this product without having gaps in the joints is to glue the edges, and then assemble and hold the frame together with a strap clamp. When the glue has set, press the v nails in while still having the strap clamp holding everything tight. This is the clamp I used, I'm sure there are many others available: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224B3/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_5 This is a fairly sturdy unit, certainly worth the money.

Product works as intended. Definitely will buy again.

OMG!!! This is one of my BEST purchases to date & one I really had to talk myself into before reality set in & I knew I needed this if I was gonna make picture frames. V easy to set up & the handle to set the “V’s” gave enough leverage making the whole process an easy task. I found the hard wood “V’s” a little easier to set than the soft (though I’m using some sort of pine but it has hard & soft sections- haven’t a clue🙄) Occasionally, I ended up setting 2 V’s rather than 1 as they stick together but that’s operator error.. Joining 12 frames together after the glue dried took a little over 2 hrs. Some of the V’s didn’t set all the way & that was fault of the person who glued the frames together in the 1st place!, me..

Pure junk. The thumb screw that holds the wood pieces together stripped on the first use. It is also not good with textured molding for frame pieces and if you want to make a thick frame it doesn't do that well either. You're better off getting one of the bigger table top models for 20 or 30 bucks more but it will do the job better. I returned it after the thumb screw stripped out and wouldn't hold anymore