BLDC 72V 3000W Brushless Motor Kit with 24 Mosfet 50A Controller and Throttle Foot Pedal for Electric Scooter Engine Motorcycle DIY Part Conversion Kit (6 Part in 1 and Motor with Foot)

The product is completely fine. I got it to convert my bike into an electric bike. I literally just got the mechanics and electronics all to work. I have no idea what the hard boot wires are for because I tried to start it with that in and nothing happened so I just leave it disconnected. For me I needed to mount the motor so the sprocket was on the left side of the bike to take advantage of electronic breaking which the motor controller does not do. I'm taking a three phase rectifier and am going to have some relays in series to connect it back to the battery only when the motor controller is first disconnected but I have yet to test it). However the motor is hardwired to spin forward in the opposite direction for that side.(motor spin direction is important because the motor controller does not allow full speed in the reverse mode) TO CHANGE THE DIRECTION OF SPIN: simply switch any and only two main motor wires with each other but because of the holifex sensor it won't work at all then. Next you need to do the same thing to the leads of the holifex. The holifex has 5 cords. 2 (red and black) are only for power and the other three correspond with the main motor inputs. I switched blue and yellow on the motor but when I did the same on the holifex it still didn't work because they didn't correlate the color of the wire in the holifex with the color wire of the motor it actually sensed so you might have to cut strip and try all combinations till it works. But that's how you hard wire it to go in the other direction. I suggest cutting the wires from the controller and not the motor. Also to people who complained about the Chinese on the handle... Figure it out. It's easy to remember once you try them all and see what they do but if you want others to know too then just take a Sharpe marker and Mark 123 and FR on the switches. Litteraly 1min to do all of that! I'll add some stats when I get a battery with enough power but a 5p 12s battery got me to 15mph+ on flatish road on low setting. Med and high seem to try then stop 1sec later but I think its my bms throttling the controller. Someone said it could get you up to 60mph but let me test it. Wires coming out of the motor controller can be difficult to figure out but remember blue to blue for throttle. Update: I decided I'm going to make a completely new battery entirely so the new battery will be 20p by 20s I'm going to make it in four separate packs each pack will have 20 parallel and five rows in series to give me the maximum amount of nickel to spread out the current. I'm going to use a 50 amp output 20s bms. If you want to make your own regenerative braking on top of the rectifier you'll also need 1500w boost converter with constant voltage control to boost the voltage up to YOUR batteries charging voltage. You can also plug a solar panel into the same boost converter to charge the battery. If you want to charge the battery with a wall outlet I'd suggest looking into server power supplies you can get 1100w for 30 bucks-ish you just need to research ahead of time how to wire the leads to turn it on. To power any low voltage equipment you might want to look into a voltage step down from 72v to 12v. If you need a lower voltage I would suggest getting the step down to 12v and then a 12v to whatever you need (probs 5v) because a lot of DC stuff uses 12v cuz cars. It would also be a good idea to get a battery power output monitor just keep track of the Watts going in and out and battery voltage. If you're going to use this motor it's probably the cheapest one for the wattage but the in wheel Motors are a lot more Compact and take up a lot less space in the frame of the bike that could be used for battery. I just recently learned how to make an in wheel motor and besides not knowing a good source of cheap coated copper wire I think I would probably make my own motor and motor controller. For the average Joe though this is probably your best budget option just don't forget to buy a chain tensioner! Just do it (12 bucks will save a lot of trouble).

Fits razor mx650 and pairs well with my 72v 20mah wroyeti battery.. I can travel at least 25miles and the motor and controller are powerful and good quality..hard boot switch plugged and it takes off with nod delay or lag..I'm also able to get up to 45.. I haven't had an issue yet.. but if I do I will update

low quality its a bad tune on the controller and its massive, just get a fardriver and vevor. throttle quiality is horrible, it got stuck down and snapped and made me crash.

I installed this on my 4 wheel bike that has 24" Wheels and it goes 30 mph. I have a 40 amp lithium hour battery that has 75volts and I've had it for several years and probably driven 2000 miles. It does get hot when I drive at high speeds for 15 to 20 minutes, but that was with a trailer on my 4 wheel bike that had 2 more riders on it.

I have the 3000 watt motor and 50 amp controller. The motor and sprocket was not what I had hoped for but made it work for a drift trike. The motor does not seem to have immediate power kind of takes off slow and builds speed, but for a powered cart or something to haul stuff probably would work fine. I added a pic of the shaft size. Also noticed if you use reverse and the nut on sprocket is not super tight it can back off maybe should put on a nylon nut or double nut it.

The kit was great motor has been holding up and havnt had any problems yet. Set up was pretty straight forward if you have a little knowledge with electronics but it did come with a booklet to show everything.

I used this kit for a 72v electric gokart conversion. 15in rear tires, 6:1 gear ratio, ~36-38mph. It's got enough torque to get around in a grassy field just fine. Motor gets up to135-140deg F after 45min or so with an outside temp of 95-100 in the summer. Very happy with this purchase!

I purchased this kit a while back and when I first hooked it up I noticed a major delay in the throttle. I assumed it was a bad throttle so I replaced it. No fix. So I assumed it was an issue with the controller. Replaced controller. New controller has support for the sensor inside the motor and I find out the reason the throttle was laggy was because of a bad sensor inside the motor. I’m past my return window and have been using 2/3 of the phases the whole time. TLDR; motor came in with a bad sensor inside. Caused massive throttle lag and now im past my return window and am out the price of this kit due to controller in the kit not having functionality to report any faults.

OVER PRICED & It was installed on THURSDAY - FRIDAY And DEAD Before SUNDAY NIGHT & No joke , no exaggeration , no b.s But me and my daughter did get caught in the rain To give it some credit but It wasn't a crazy rainfall though NICE WHILE IT LASTED but CONTROLLER MOSSFET BLEW UP P.s If you use this controller protect it from any moisture If you get caught in the rain or a bunch of moisture Might as well bag up And try to Protect your controller and wiring Also is there any way I could get a replacement Or some different options I could use like the 80amp controller For discount or something

great thanks

Mon monteur fonctionne tjs pas.. il mon renvoyer un nouveau et il arrete apres 5sec. Je suis en attente avec le service....

I’ve installed the kit which was simple enough and runs well, although I have no reverse (as advertised). Have attempted to make contact many times for support although once they knew that the controller was faulty - no contact. They just don’t want to know you. I’ve sent emails and videos via what’s App and still nothing. It’s very difficult to get any information if needed.