Amana Tool 82 Degree Countersink with Drill Bit Depth Stop and No-Thrust Ball Bearing, 55225, 3/8 D x 3/32 Drill D x 1/4 Inch Quick Release Hex Shank

Great tool to drill and counter sink to the same depth every time. Saves time. The stop doesn’t mark the wood surface. The drill is short but it’s easy put a longer one in when I need to go through thicker wood.

This is a great little addition to the tool bag. It's definitely not necessary when compared to cheaper countersinks without a stop, but the stop tremendously improves speed, ease, and consistency.

As good a countersink as could be asked for. Adjustable depth. Non marring. Well worth the price

I fall for alot of gadgets - most don't live up to the hype, or they just flat-out suck! But THIS little thing? Absolutely awesome! It makes every countersink hole perfectly consistent. It's simple, effective, and honestly just makes me so happy every time I use it. Totally worth it! (Imma buy more before they yank up the price ;)

The tool is very well made, high quality and a joy to use. Precise adjustment and uniform quality of results, and a huge time saver for consistent screw sets. Pricey, but delivers what it promises, and you will probably only ever need one.

Amana makes two versions of this product, a more expensive brass ring, ball bearing model (~$44.00) and a less expensive model (~$33.00) which is lighter and has a “low friction” depth limiter ring made out of plastic. Some reviewers complained the brass ball bearing model left marks on the wood, so I imagine the low friction version is a response to that. I tried both models side-by-side and found the original brass, ball bearing model is superior in every way, in spite of the price difference. The reasons are: Both have a carbide tipped countersink that operates the same way, but the cheaper, low friction model has excessive runout and chatter. My video clip and photos below illustrate this difference. The low friction version has a continuous plastic ring which traps drilling chips beneath the plastic ring as the ring contacts the wood, and the trapped chips under the ring spin around and mar the surface of the wood. The brass ring version has two interrupted sections of the ring that help eject the chips and it didn’t mar the wood surface in my tests. In a drill press, both versions showed acceptable runout (the brass version was exemplary) but in a hand-held DeWalt drill, the runout on the cheaper version was excessive. The photo illustrates the difference between the quality of the countersink holes of each version. The brass version produced a noticeably cleaner countersink every time, while the cheaper plastic ring version produced countersinks with obvious chatter marks. You can hear the chatter in the plastic ring, non-ball bearing version. There is a qualitative difference in “feel” of each version. The ball bearing version feels like quality, while the non-ball bearing version feels like a light-weight compromise. For the $11.00 difference, I’d buy the more expensive, heavier, ball-bearing model. I returned the plastic ring versions due to the runout and chatter and kept the ball bearing versions. For uses where top quality appearance of countersinks doesn’t matter, either version would be okay. You get what you pay for.

I've only used this for a few holes, but thought I would share my initial opinion. I've used several countersinks on wood screws and I'm primarily concerned with how smooth the outer edge of the hole is and how repeatable the countersink depth is. I have tried the Snappy, the cheap Ryobi, and a few others. The best I have found until now are sold by Lee Valley and made by an Israeli company. With this product I obtained clean holes with no edge breakout on pine plywood. I looked at the package and it says "made in Israel". I suppose Amana has a deal with the same company. I did not test counterboring as you would for a plug covering the screw. No scratching of the surface as the collar does not rotate. If you adjust the depth stop, you have a perfect hole that just fits the screw head every time. The only downside to this product is that the collar completely blocks your view of the progress of the countersink. You are drilling blind at this stage unless you can move your head down to see under the workpiece. Just takes some getting used to. The depth is controlled by the collar, so you don't really need to see what's happening. You do need to really slow down the drill as the countersink portion is engaged. In general, countersinks like to cut slow if you want a smooth edge. I try for about 200 RPM for a countersink of this size. If you don't want to spend the money on this, a pretty good hole can be obtained with the Ryobi set AFTER you hone both sides of all the cutting edges. An Ez-lap or similar DMT tool or small sharpening card is good for that. (and they are diamond grit, so they will also sharpen this countersink if you drill enough holes to dull it) This countersink product series includes several drill diameters. This one will clearance drill for the threads on a #8 modern wood or deck screw. Consider the screws you are going to use and whether they have a relieved shank that will extend through the top workpiece. I will probably buy a 1/8" one for that case. Also, I learned that wood screws, at least the GRK brand, are 90 degree heads. Sheet metal screws and machine screws to imperial (U.S.) standards are 82 degrees. Machine screws for very thin parts (aircraft or electronics sheet metal) are sometimes 100 degrees. Amana offers 82 and 90 degree versions. If you are using a drill press, very good results in wood can be obtained with a machinist's zero-flute Weldon countersink set. They are HSS and must be sharpened occasionally with a small stone in a moto-tool or die grinder. Those will not counterbore for a plug, only countersink. Machinery suppliers also sell one-flute countersinks that will do pretty good, and solid carbide countersinks. Hand drilling with the common six-flute hardware-store countersinks either leads to burning through the wood since they are not sharp, or more commonly wobbling in the hole and chattering. If you've read this far, you are now a countersink expert... Edit: If your collar is turning after contact, try light machine oil under the retaining ring. Made a difference for me.

I use this on every project. From cabinets to floating shelves, this thing is great. Easy to adjust, doesn’t mark up your piece either. For that professional look, grab one of these.