Backup Camera Monitor Only - 5 Inch HD Image Back up Camera Screen for Cars Trucks SUVs Vans RVs Trailers Campers, Dashboard/Windshield Installation, 12V/24V, Camera Not Included (5 Inch)

I drive a 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan and needed a backup camera to see because I am always loading and unloading tools out of my van for the work I do. I saw this camera and it looked like it had a lot of good reviews so I thought I would try it. When the camera came I noticed that the power wire was not long enough from the camera to my backup light because I had to reroute the wire around the inside panel of the hatch on the back of my van , it made me think that maybe this was designed to go on a vehicle where the license plate was not part of the trunk or back hatch. The same was also the case for the video cable which was not quite long enough to reach from the camera to my friend dash where I mounted the monitor. This did not stop me though. I just went to RadioShack and bought a small spool of wire and attached it to get the length I needed to reach my backup light. I also purchased a video cable and a double-ended RCA connector to extend the cable to the front of my van to reach the monitor. So all-in-all I ended up paying about another 15 - $20 in cable and one connector so the wires would reach where they needed to. The tape on the bottom of the monitors base wss not quite sticky enough to hold to my Dash . But I just used some black gorilla tape to go over the top of it to hold it down in and that worked just fine . Most of the job in my case was in taking the panels off the inside of my van and routing the cables around the existing cables with zip ties. It took a little extra work but in the end it was worth it. I have had this camera now for about a week and it has worked wonderfully. The quality of the picture on the monitor is very clear and clean. I noticed when I hooked up the red wire that powers the monitor that the monitor came on and there were horizontal lines across the screen but only until I hooked up the black ground wire and then they were gone. I am writing this product with 5 stars because the product itself is a good product. I knew the installation of the wires and routing them where going to be a bit of a challenge at least for a minivan and that's okay because I like a challenge. So if you are buying this for a mini van where the license plate is attached to the hatch be prepared to get more wire Both for the camera to reach the backup light, and the video cable to reach up front to the monitor. All in all I would have to say I like my new backup camera. It is so much easier now to see what is right behind me so I do not run into things while I am loading and unloading my vehicle. And most other backup cameras like this cost about $100 so even if you have to spend another 15 to $20 to make it work you're still not spending all that much money. Good luck and I hope this review helps you.

Straightforward installation in a 2010 F-150 Supercrew Cab truck into my sunglasses holder. I have some experience with vehicle electronics but am by no means an expert. Probably took around 3 hours but that was including a lot of looking and figuring things out as I went. If you are installing in a similar vehicle, here is a step by step: 1. Mount camera. As a side note, I'm concerned that I"ll step out of the back of the truck and onto it. Right now it covers the top of the license plate (the state name, which is surely illegal). I'm probably going to modify later with a couple of strips of metal bent to place it above the plate and between the tailgate and bumper, tucked out of the way. 2. Connect red wire to backup lamp (search online to figure out which one is hot or use a tester). *when using the blue snap/splice wire connectors, go ahead and strip the red wires so that there is an immediate connection. I ran into a problem with one of them because it didn't slice through the small wire's insulation and didn't make a connection. 3. Drill a hole into the metal taillight housing out of the way to attach the black ground wire. 4. Run the feed wire through the frame to the back corner of the cab. 5. On the F-150, there is a small grommet (about 1") that leads right up to the plastic door sill from the bottom. I poked a hole through the center of it and pushed it through. I'll go back later and put a little bit of caulk on it but I don't know that it matters. 6. Pop both door sills loose on the driver's side. Run the wire along the channel with the factory wires. 7. Run the feed wire up the front of the door frame on the inside behind the plastic kick panel up to the front left windshield pillar. It pops off easily and you can quickly run it to the top of the windshield. 8. Take the visor off to release the headliner. 9. Take out the sunglasses holder. 10. Find the hot wire that feeds the overhead lights and tap into it with a blue wire snap/splice connector (again, strip the small hot wire so that it makes a good connection). 11. I hooked everything up to be sure it worked, and mine worked without a ground on the monitor. However, I went ahead and grounded it to one of the screws that holds in the black plastic bracket that holds in the sunglasses holder. 12. Tuck the excess wiring up into the headliner. 13. Once you get it wired, check to make sure everything works. To mount the screen into the sunglasses holder: 1. Peel back the adhesive on the stand base and remove the screw from the stem. 2. Carefully remove the 4 small screws in the back of the LCD in order to take the stem out of the back. This will leave a hole but I didn't cover it because it will be in a clean, dry location. 3. I flipped the "u-shaped" plastic piece onto the bottom and used some 1/2" thick x 1" wide weatherstripping and stuck it to the bottom. This lifts it up toward the top of the holder so that it's not hidden behind the tall bottom part (I saw on a blog where someone took a Dremel tool and trimmed it, but this seemed like an easier option IMO). 4. Drill about a 1/2" hole in the rear sunglasses holder in a spot that does not interfere with it closing and feed all of the wires through it (I did this on the drivers side near the top). 5. I found a round black plastic plug laying around the garage, notched it, and put a couple of dabs of hot glue on it to hold in place for a more finished look. 6. Hook up the wires, tuck them all out of the way, and pop the sunglasses holder back into place. I took it out for a drive after dark and the screen really lights up and produces a bright picture. Comes on within about 1 second of shifting into reverse. I was able to back up looking only at the screen and it was easier than trying to look over my shoulder or through tinted windows to the side mirror. I didn't add any fuses, but of course the lights I wired into are fused. I guess I'll add an update to this if my truck bursts into flames. Very good, but not a superb-quality picture. Considering the price and ease of installation, this is a no brainer great deal.

Aloha, My Mana'o The backup camera/monitor kit is to help me with the least amount of time and help from others to hookup my utility-trailer to my Volkswagen Vanagon. I installed the camera on to my van's rear lic. plate. Attached the monitor to rear mirror, (up- front), wired the camera 12vdc power, (+/-), to the backup light wire at the taillight, (driver-side), fixture; used splicing- connectors, (RED # 18-20 gauge wire), ran the power cable through the back area of engine compartment, (rear-engine van), to the lic. plate then plugged the power-plug to the camera power cable. At the camera, plugged the video cable, (supplied/w kit, approx. 18ft ), to camera's video cable, then ran it , following the engine wire harness at the side of engine, secured it with cable ties to the wire harness. note, to prevent damaged to video cable and power cable, I ran them through heat/weather/phyical flexible wire tubing in areas where needed. Continued running the video cable through the engine area towards the front of the van,(under side of the van), following the frame of the van/wire harness, made an opening in the floor of the van to gain entry to the inside of the van nearest the monitor. Ran video cable up to monitor located above the dashboard, to the rear mirror/monitor, plugged it to monitor video cable. note, because I did not use the RED wire, (# 18-20 approx. 6" long), that comes with the video cable, (for 12vdc), located at both ends of the cable, I had to wire the power for the monitor to the to the backup switch up front, this would had made the installation much more easy, my fault. Tested the Backup monitor/camera kit, works ! backed my van , (21/2" ball)), up to my trailer's receiver, (viewing the trailer as I backed up), stopped van, made one safety check, stop was 1" before making contact with receiver, Amazing! Inched back, felt contact with trailer's receiver, stopped. At night with no light, except van's back up, lights, its night vision camera feature worked, like day time with out color, black and white viewing at monitor, more than 50ft, Amazing. OK, now Y I did not rate this kit a 5 star? 1. The instruction sheet, should be larger like a 8"x11" to make easy to read/see wiring diagram. 2. Explain more, what the RED, wire +, is part of the video cable is used for, should the installer would rather power up the kit using those wires at both ends of the video cable. 3. I used all the cable, power and video from the kit, yet the instructions said not to use a cable? what cable? 4. The mirror monitor that I attached to the rear mirror located above the dash, not good location, video/12v power cables are hanging from the mirror down to the dash, making installation very unprofessionally installed. I would suggest that the monitor type be mounted on the dash, therefore excess cable can be hidden inside/under dash console My suggestion to an installer, 1. Ck with your local auto parts stores and/or electrical/electronic stores or stores like Home Depot or Louse for wire connecters, cable ties, electrical tape and flex-tubing. 2. Make sure you know the polarity of the 12vdc from the vehicle are correct, normal color RED +, BLACK (-), on autos colors may vary, watch out! will destroy the monitor /camera. No second chances. 3. I find that cking out kit before installing it is a good idea, all you need,12vdc source, (battery or 12vdc power supply), the kit has the rest of the parts that's needed. Again I must remind installer make sure have the correct polarity to the monitor and the camera before making connection when applying 12vdc power. Now you know it works, now all you need to do is make it work after it is installed. 4. A good installation of the kit is best when it is secured from human touch, physical and weather abuse. 5. An installer should have a little knowledge in electricity or seek automotive electricity help, from a auto mechanic. I am a retired electrical/electronic technician, I am not in the workforce. A friend had a backup camera/monitor that he installed on his truck, went to the internet, found this kit for the price, its Amazingly good. time will tell me how good it is. I will be installing another kit on my truck later on. I bought two (2) kits, one done one to go. Aloha, Mahalo Solomon M Chong Pearl City Hi, 96782

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QTGXYIE This works great and I can't believe the clarity of the monitor, and camera combined. I had everything up and running in a half hour. The hardwire set-up is better then wireless because of the solid signal. No interference. This is a very good buy. I have installed several, and this was no problem. It just works........well. I did use a 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse ACN TAP Adapter mini blade fuse holder that I also purchased from Amazon. It makes hooking up the positive wire to the fuse box under the dash much easier. I ran the hardwires under the carpet and moldings I own a Prius. I have also used the same type of unit with a different camera and hooked it up to the front of the car to protect the Bumper when parking. Used a pushbutton switch for the trigger. The quality of this unit is very high, especially considering the price. Backup Camera and Monitor Kit For Car,Universal Waterproof Rear-view License Plate Car Rear Backup Camera + 4.3 LCD Rear View Monitor E Support 12V 5A Car Auto Boat Blue Angel Eye LED Light Lamp Metal Push Button Rocker Toggle Switch On Off Qunqi 5pack 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse ACN TAP Adapter mini blade fuse holder Arthur Decker

Just installed this item in a 2002 Impala. Some info on installation follows but the two primary shortcomings of the product are the field of view and washing out (cannot see) the image in bright sunlight (I used to adjustments for brightness and contrast on the back of the mirror to optimize for bright sunlight). The field of view is directly behind and 3 feet to each side at 15' behind the car---probably a 60 degree V shaped view. Bottom line, you an see behind the car but very little of what might be approaching from the sides. I live in Arizona so the washing out in sunlight is a real issue. Another commenter noted the mirror needs to be tilted down to eliminate the washout and that is true. It is also true that no useful info on installation is provided. The product is not good enough to warrant paying for professional installation so I view it as a DIY product. The determiner as to whether you can DIY is your ability to find and tap into your reverse light wiring AND ability to run wiring from the rear to the front of the vehicle. The mirror AND the camera need 12v to power each of them. If you are handy enough to tap into the reverse light wiring for the camera power AND tap into something in the fuse box or back of the radio or cigarette lighter to power the monitor then you can mount the camera and monitor and power each of those. If you are good enough with auto wiring to find 12v to power the monitor in front of the car then I recommend purchasing the wireless sender for the camera to eliminate having to fish wiring from the rear to the mirror/monitor. If, like myself, you did not feel comfortable working under the dash splicing wires (one short and a person could blow a computer) you will have to run power from the rear to the front anyway so you may as well run the video wire as well. I did the following; 1. to check out the system I taped the + and - of both power cords (the 4.5 ft cords---red positive and black negative) directly on the battery terminals then put power to the camera and monitor(red connectors). I then connected the video cable from camera to monitor. My system worked perfect so I proceeded to installation. 2. I then identified the reverse wiring colors by looking at the reverse lamp--black was ground and green hot in my case. 3. Attaching the camera to the license plate bolts is easy but you will have to fish the power and video cable to the interior of the trunk where to reverse light wiring is tapped into. 4. I then found those two reverse light wires in the harness in the trunk, cut the two wires and created two power sources---one is the power source for the camera (provided) and the other is about 15 ft of wire I purchased. I used crimp connectors. 5. I then fished both the video cable and the new power cable from the trunk to the interior of the car and ran the wiring behind the trim for the headliner. 6. I then connected the second power cable from the mirror/monitor to the new power wire I fished (also with crimp connectors) and attached the video cable. I hid all the above behind the headliner trim. The installation is neat and clean and works per the limitations I noted above. There are short red wires on each end of the video cable. After some searching it appears these can be used to direct connect to a monitor if your vehicle has one. Mine did not so the two little red wires were not used.

I mounted the camera to the top license plate bolts and ran the wire up and into the trunk lid. Removed the interior panel from the trunk and pulled the wires down and connected the video and power cable to the camera leads and then wrapped electrical tape around them to keep them from coming unplugged. I used a voltmeter (if you dont have one, hot is the one that goes to the center of the bulb) to back probe the back up light with the car in reverse, emergency brake on, and not running. I used Posi-locks Posi-Lock® wire connectors Assortment pack 10-24 awg and a length of wire to go from the hot on the back up light to the red wire on the video cable and the power cable going to the camera. The black lead from the power cable can go to any ground point on the car or you can posi-lock it to the the ground for the back up lights. The rest is just a matter of tucking the video cable out of site all the way to the dashboard. I followed the directions for removing the stock radio in my car so that I could pull the video cable past the trim piece connect the monitor and the power lead, posi-locked the black wire to anything going to ground, and butt connected (you can twist them together and wrap with electrical tape too) the red power cable to the red wire coming from the video. Now everytime I put the car in reverse the whole system powers on and I have video! It's almost instantaneous. There are wireless ways to do the same thing but there was a lot of lag on the ones I bought so I hard wired.

Yea, it is rather cheaply made, but it does work as well as the one built in my wife's new Subaru. The directions are nearly non existent. I took what directions came with the kit and blew them up 200% so I could read it better. The directions are almost no help. The wiring diagram is better to follow, but it, too, is a bit confusing. Use what you can use, and use your common sense. Forget hooking up the additional video source; I do not know why you would need another video source. Here is what I did, and wait for the last paragraph! 1991 Dodge Ram 2500: I mounted the camera in the top bolts of the rear license plate holder, and ran the wires through a conveniently placed 1" hole in the sheetmetal. This came out near the spare tire mount, and there were lots of wires there from two previous trailer wiring harnesses that were previously installed. I ran the long wire along the frame to the engine compartment, and there was a grommet with a hole, perhaps from a previous CB antenna, which was conveniently placed. This brought the wiring out near the fuse box, so I ran the wires along the door frame to the dash. At this point, I was confused by the wiring connections, so I made an appointment with my auto mechanic to make the electrical connections. I helped him today, and he found the backup light hot lead, and connected the red camera wire to that. He found a ground wire and connected the black wire to that. Nothing happened, so we went to the monitor end, and he connected the red lead to a vacant fuse slot in the fuse slot, and "Voila!" (French for "There!") We had a picture! I finished tucking the wires along the door frame, and stuck the monitor to the windshield. The sticky tape doesn't hold very well, so I replaced it with 3M double sided tape and so far, it is holding to the windshield. I put a spot of silicone at the spot the wire comes out of the camera, and I taped all of the connectors, as they do not stay connected very well. Now, the best part of the story: On the way home, I stopped at a convenience store and parked in an angled space along side of the store. Since my truck is high off the ground, I am in the habit of walking and looking behind the truck before I back out. Nothing there. I jumped up in the cab, started it, and put it in reverse...The monitor was showing the grille of a black Chrysler full frame in the monitor! I couldn't believe it, and turned around to see only the top 2" of a black car right on my bumper! What in the H... they were doing directly behind a big truck in an angled spot was a mystery to me, but I would have certainly backed into them if I did not have this backup camera! First use, this camera easily saved my insurer a $5000 repair bill and higher rates for me!

It's a decent camera with a nice, clear display. It functions well in low light, as good as my 2014 Dodge Ram factory camera. I purchased this kit so I could to install a back-up camera on my teenage son's vehicle. The gripes I'm about to list, and suggested fixes, are for people considering purchasing and installing this camera: -As many others have mentioned, use Plastidip to waterproof the seams. I did this as soon as I received it, was dry enough to install the same day even after 3 coats. so far, this has protected it through many spring-time hard rains and even a freak snowstorm we had a few days ago. -Also as others have mentioned, don't depend on the double-side tape that comes with the kit for mounting the screen stand to your dash. I used some 3M double-sided tape that I had left over from mounting a GPS base to my truck dash. It's held my much heavier base and Tom Tom unit for 3 years in all temps, so it will hold the much lighter display/stand that comes with the kit. The 3M tape is sold at Lowes, Home Depot, and Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Extreme-Mounting-60-Inch-Black/dp/B005SRECEU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491781455&sr=8-4&keywords=3m+double+sided+tape+heavy+duty. The 60" roll will be 59" more than you will need, but once you see how strong it is, you'll be using it for a lot of other things. -Here's the biggest issue I had-the connectors that come hard-wired and molded to the wiring are pretty big-the video lead has an RCA jack, and the power wire has a connector that's almost as big-this made it very difficult to route through small openings. I was installing this on an Isuzu Rodeo, which has the license plate mounted on a swing gate (but the back-up lights mounted on the quarter panels). Getting the connectors through the small holes and flexible conduit inside the hinge area took 90% of my installation time and effort. Just an FYI if your vehicle has a swing gate, or if the license plate is mounted on a bottom-hinged tailgate or a top-hinged hatch, especially if the back-up lights that must be wired into are not part of the gate/hatch assembly. It can be done, but those big connectors make it tough. You may want to make a decision here about whether it may be better to buy a wireless camera kit for this type of application. Wireless setups are more expensive, and possible less reliable, so a monetary vs. time and effort value will have to be calculated. This right here is why it didn't get 5 stars. -Despite the above info, I do recommend the camera kit as it does a very good job for the money.