















⚙️ Elevate your 3D printing game with silent power and cool precision!
The TMC2209 V1.2 Stepper Motor Driver is a high-performance, original German-engineered chip designed for SKR V1.4 Turbo and SKR 2 32-bit control boards. It supports a wide input voltage range (5.5V-28V), features a large heatsink for efficient cooling, and offers ultra-quiet operation via StealthChop technology. With sensorless feedback and flexible microstepping up to 1/256, it delivers smooth, precise motor control ideal for professional-grade 3D printing setups.
| ASIN | B09BK57KNY |
| Are batteries included? | No |
| Best Sellers Rank | #257,869 in Industrial & Scientific ( See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific ) #284 in 3D Printer Motors |
| Brand | Teyleten Robot |
| Customer Reviews | 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars (83) |
| Date First Available | 14 August 2021 |
| Item Dimensions LxWxH | 21 x 15 x 13 Millimeters |
| Item Height | 13 Millimeters |
| Item Weight | 32 g |
| Item Width | 15.5 Millimeters |
| Item model number | G78-1 |
| Manufacturer | Teyleten Robot |
| Material | Metal |
| Model Name | tmc2209 |
| Model number | G78-1 |
| Number of Memory Sticks | 5 |
| Product Dimensions | 2.07 x 1.55 x 1.3 cm; 32 g |
| Speed | 50000 RPM |
| UPC | 755454774471 |
| Voltage | 5.5 Volts |
J**R
I had to adjust the VREF for each. I put x, and both z's at 1v and then the y at 1.15 and the extruder at 1.2. runs smooth, quiet and cool to the touch. I am not running klipper, because there isnt a whole lot of advantage on this massive printer. The gains in speed are negated by the weight of the bed and gantry, and most other features you can get in marlin. So, I run standalone and Marlin 2.x
T**L
The heatsink overlaps the pins with a chance of shorting if the adhesive deteriorates, use nail polish on the pins before applying the heatsink, the 5th pin is from the wrong order for UART if you follow the picture above, it's the 4th by default! Pins are both skewed not parallel. Works plug and play on RAMPS 1.4 with Klipper otherwise. You can also invert the VMOT pin to the other side for external 27v power supply for full torque with StealthChop (silent mode)
G**S
Upgraded my Prusa MK 2.5S with these drivers, they are really the game changer. My printer is now super quiet and runs smoothly. I used for all XYZE motors with a driver breakout from Custom Circuit Co. in Sweden. Runs well with 24 VDC.
S**R
I bought these drivers as a swap in for my ANYCUBIC Mega X's stock stepper drivers because the stock drivers are super loud. Like many 3D printing hobbyist, I YouTubed how to install them but these general videos will not help you with these specific drivers beyond a certain point. Key points that will remain the same for those videos and these drivers: 1) You have to disconnect your stepper motors from the board, pull the plastic input housing off the pins and flip it 180 degrees. Reinsert this housing on the pins. Then flip your cables over and plug them in like that. 2) When adjusting VREF with a multimeter on each driver's potentiometer, each one should be between 1.1V and 1.2V. I did 1.1V for every stepper except the extruder (E0). For that one, I did 1.2V based off of a wealth of research. Okay, that's where the similarities between these drivers and the instructional videos end. The product description says UART or Direct Step are both driver setting options. This is not the case if you have an ANYCUBIC Trigorilla board in your printer because the ability to adjust steps manually does not exist on those boards and is defaulted to 16 steps. So what does that mean? It means if you install them as is in UART mode, your axises will be a hot mess express. My Y axis kept going all the way forward or backwards and just grinding there. My X axis wouldn't move at all. Only my Z axis worked correctly. I scoured forums, videos, and Facebook groups for help and finally found someone who was patient enough to help me figure this out. Basically, to turn UART off and set the driver to direct step mode (which is the mode you need for these printers that use Trigorilla boards) you need to bend 3 pins all the way sideways so they do not insert into the board. (please see attached photos for reference). If you look at one of these 2209 drivers straight on with the 3 copper circles being the top (yellow pins should be on the right), you're going to bend flat out to the side the 3rd, 4th, and 5th pins on the right side. This turns UART off and converts this into a direct step driver. Now you can carry on without the 5+ hours of troubleshooting and confusion that I endured. This process works fine with stock firmware and Knutwurst. I don't run Octoprint or Klipper, but I'd imagine it'd work for those too. Once I'd done this to all 5 stepper motors and turned the printer off and back on, the axises corrected themselves and now all home appropriately with no grinding. Happy Printing!
J**S
Great to have a few of these for when you bleep an axis controller. The simplicity of pulling out the old one and slipping in one of these on my SKR 1.4 is great. You don't have to clip any pins for these at least in my case. They do get hot so please wait a few minutes after powering down your printer before touching them or use a hot mit. Also you should use a fan to help offset the heat build while in use. This multi pack is a great value to just keep in your emergency replacement kit for any 3d printer that uses replaceable driver chips.
Trustpilot
2 days ago
1 week ago